Extreme Weather Is the Main Cause of Power Outages 

Most major power outages are caused by severe natural disasters. For example, Hurricane Irma in 2017 caused 3.5 million people to lose power, and the winter storm of 2021 in Texas left 2 million without power. 

Severe weather events are on the rise, which means blackouts are also increasing in frequency, and the outages are lasting longer. 

Other Causes of Major Power Outages 

Extreme weather isn’t the only cause of blackouts in the US. Wildfires are also a major cause of grid failures, which is why California is one of the most affected states. Unfortunately, wildfires and their associated power outages are also expected to rise in frequency. 

Aging infrastructure is also a problem. Nearly ⅔ of the US power transmission lines are over 25 years old, making them vulnerable to grid failures. Increased demand, as more people use air conditioning during heat waves, only adds to the problem. The age of the power system also makes it more vulnerable to cyber attacks and sabotage. 

One of the worst-case scenarios for the US is an electromagnetic pulse (EMP) event such as a solar flare. This could potentially take out the entire power system and even render electronics unusable. 

What Happens During a Long-Term Power Outage—The Immediate Impact and Domino Effect

In most cases, the immediate effects of a blackout are mild. Sure, you might not be able to make your coffee or charge your phone, but they aren’t life-threatening. Keep in mind that there are currently 330 million people in the world who live without power. Their standard of living is much lower than what we are used to in the USA, but they manage.

The real problem is when blackouts last for prolonged periods because our infrastructure relies on power. This domino effect and resulting infrastructure collapse can be deadly. 

Here are some of the ways power outages can result in infrastructure collapse:

• Supply Chain Disruptions: Supermarkets, pharmacies, and gas stations quickly run out of supplies as people scramble to stockpile.
• Water Shortages: Water treatment facilities rely on electricity. When the grid is down, a boil warning may be in effect or, worse, water might not be available at all. Likewise, if you have a well, your pump won’t work without power.
• Hygiene Crises: If sewage and waste disposal systems stop, people may dispose of waste in unsafe ways, leading to disease outbreaks (such as the Haiti cholera outbreak that followed the earthquake of 2010). 
• Security Concern: Rising theft and civil unrest, especially in metropolitan areas.
• Heating and Air Conditioning Fail: Without power, climate control disappears — a danger in freezing or extremely hot conditions.

How to Prepare for Long-Term Power Outages: A Step-By-Step Plan

1. Start Small—Prepare for 72 Hours first, Then Expand

Before you start worrying about long-term survival, focus on being able to make it through a short blackout by stocking up on basic emergency supplies.

Make sure you have:

• Bottled water
• Non-perishable foods
• Emergency lighting (flashlights, candles, chemical lights and headlamps)
• A battery-powered or hand-crank radio

2. Get Your Bug-Out Essentials Ready

Having a Bug Out Bag (aka “BOB” or “Go Bag”) is one of the most important parts of disaster preparedness. It is especially important for grid-down situations in an urban environment since civil unrest could occur. 

Staying put during a grid outage often makes more sense if you live in a rural environment. However, there are exceptions. For example, if you live in an area that doesn’t have access to water, it may make more sense to bug out to somewhere with more resources.

3. Determine Your Critical Medical Needs

If you or your family members have medical needs that rely on power, even a short-term blackout can be deadly. To prepare, you should:

• Identify needs, such as CPAP machines or refrigeration for insulin storage
• Calculate power consumption. 
• Prepare generators or battery banks to meet these power needs.

4. Water Purification and Storage

We can only go three days without water. On top of that, water is required for essential needs like hygiene and cooking. So, water needs to be a priority for long-term power outage prepping.

• Manual Water Filters: Handheld filters like Sawyer Mini can clear sediments and pathogens from lakes, rivers, or rainwater.
• Water Purification Tablets or Drops: Chemical purifiers are lightweight, small, and effective at treating viruses as well as bacteria and cysts.
• Large Storage Containers and Rainwater Barrels: Fill and treat large barrels in advance and consider adding a rainwater collection system to keep your supply up.
  
  

5. Heating without Electricity

Hypothermia can become a major threat during prolonged winter blackouts. On top of that, freezing conditions can destroy your plumbing or crack your water storage tanks. To prepare, you’ll need:

• Off-Grid Heating Method: Ideally, you have at least two options in case you run out of fuel for the first one. Propane and wood stoves are popular, but even emergency candles can be used for heating. 

• Fuel: You’ll need to do research about how to best stockpile fuel in a safe way, depending on where you live. 

• Supplies to Create a “Warm Room”: It’s easier to keep a small, well-insulated room warm than your entire home. You’ll want supplies like wool blankets or space blankets to hang over windows and tape for sealing off drafts. 

• CO Detector: Even when used properly, off-grid heating methods can result in carbon monoxide poisoning. Make sure you have a working detector and spare batteries for it. 

• Thermal Clothing: You can get high-quality thermals at affordable prices at military surplus stores. 

Pro Tip: You can turn a small 2-4 person tent into a warm room. Set one up inside your home to reduce your reliance on heating. Insulated mattresses and sleeping bags will make it even more comfortable. 

6. Cooling during Power Outages 

Extreme heat can be just as dangerous as freezing temperatures — especially for children, the elderly, or anyone with health issues. Without air conditioning or fans, you need a fallback plan to stay cool when the power is out.

• Supplies for Blocking Sunlight: Keep curtains, blinds, or heavy drapes closed during the day to block solar gain. You can hang a space blanket or a white sheet outside a window to reflect the sun’s rays.
• Create Airflow: Open windows strategically in the evening or at night to allow a cross-breeze. If you have a battery-powered or hand-crank fan, use it to move air through your home.
• Reduce Heat-Generating Activities: Avoid cooking indoors during the day. If you need to boil water or prepare food, use a portable grill or camp stove outside. 
• Improve Air Circulation Naturally: Hang a wet sheet in a window or doorway. As air blows through it, the water evaporates and cools the room—a low-tech form of air conditioning.

7. Food Security

When the power goes out, your perishable foods are at risk of going bad. At the same time, grocery stores might not be open or will be out of stock as everyone rushes to grab whatever is left. This is why you need a food plan for getting you through a long-term power outage.

• Keeping Perishable Foods Safe: Foods in your fridge will stay good for about 4 hours if you keep it closed. Frozen foods last longer–up to 48 hours if it’s full, or 24 hours if it’s half full. Fill all available space in your freezer with water bottles or jugs — it will help the food last longer and the ice water can be used for drinking when it melts.

• Using a Generator for Your Fridge/Freezer: If you have a generator, you’ll need to decide whether it’s worth using to keep your perishables cool. During long-term blackouts, it may be better to save the generator for more critical needs.

• Focus on Non-Perishables: But think twice before stockpiling foods that require extensive cooking, such as pastas or dry beans–especially if you have limited fuel for your emergency stove. Instead, focus on emergency foods that don’t require cooking. Meals Ready to Eat (MREs) are a great solution. 

• Alternative Storage Solutions: If temperatures outside are freezing, you can store perishables in a sheltered spot outside. If you have the space, you might want to consider making a root cellar for keeping foods cool during warm-weather blackouts.

8. Home Security Measures for Power Outages 

During a long-term power outage, your home is more vulnerable. Without alarm systems, surveillance cameras, or proper lighting, it can become a target for theft or break-ins — especially if civil unrest starts to rise as supplies run out. You can take these steps to keep your home safe.

• Lock Down Your Home: Make sure all doors and windows are locked and reinforced if necessary. Security film, additional locks, or wooden boards can help fortify weak points.
• Non-Lethal Deterrents: Bright battery-powered or solar-powered motion sensor lighting and alarm signals can help deter intruders. However, the light could also attract attention, so you need to weigh the benefits and risks.
• Stay Aware: Make sure you have a battery-powered or hand-crank emergency radio to stay informed about nearby disturbances or emergencies. Communication lets you respond quickly if trouble starts in your area.

9. Develop Off-Grid Living Skills

Having a stockpile of supplies is a great start—but it's your skills that will keep you alive when the power stays off for extended periods of time and resources become scarce. The more you know, the less you need. These skills are also crucial for surviving other types of disasters and improving your overall preparedness. 

• Fire Making: Master a few methods–including making fires in wet conditions—so you can stay warm, boil water, and cook without electricity.
• Foraging, Fishing and Hunting: Learn which wild plants are safe to eat and how to efficiently catch freshwater fish. Small game and fishing can become a key food source when stores are closed.
• Food Preservation Canning, drying, fermenting, and curing are all time-tested methods to make food last without refrigeration. A few jars of home-canned produce or jerky can make a huge difference during a crisis.
• Basic Repairs: Blackouts don’t directly cause damage to your home. However, the cause of the outage–such as a winter storm or hurricane–may cause problems. Make sure you have the knowhow to fix problems like leaky pipes or holes in the roof. 

10. Perform a “Dry Run”

A plan untested is a plan untrusted. To make sure you are actually prepared, you need to do a “dry run” of it—such as trying to go without power for a long weekend. 

This dry run will help you find holes in your plan, such as missing supplies or tools that don’t work as expected. It’s better to find these problems now when you still have time to fix them than in a real crisis!

Bugging Out in the City: Navigating Urban Challenges

Evacuating from a city presents challenges that differ significantly from rural areas. You’re more likely to encounter these challenges:

• Civil Unrest: Large groups of frustrated people can quickly become unpredictable, leading to looting or panic. This creates a layer of danger that you typically won’t find in a rural area. 
• Traffic Gridlock and Roadblocks: Streets may become impassable due to crowds, accidents, abandoned vehicles, or police checkpoints. Bridges and tunnels may also be closed or patrolled, cutting off access. As a result, you are more likely to need to evacuate on foot.
• Slower Evacuation: The combination of crowds, roadblocks, and the need to move on foot means that evacuation will likely take longer. 
• Competition for Resources: High population density means that there will be competition for any available resources, such as shelter or food. 
• Limited Sight Lines: The city’s tall buildings and narrow streets can disorient you and block your view, making it more difficult to navigate, find resources, or know whether a path is safe. 
• Higher Risk of Violence or Theft: Crowded conditions and desperation make theft, assault, and other crimes more likely in an urban setting.

Building Your Urban Bug-Out Bag: What to Include

Most Bug Out Bag checklists are written for people in rural or suburban areas. But, because the challenges in an urban environment are so different, you’ll need to pack differently. You're less likely, for example, to need a hatchet or a fishing kit, when roaming through crowded city streets. Instead, you’ll need to focus on these urban survival items. 

1. Durable, Low-Profile Backpack

MOLLE and other military-style packs are usually the first choice for Bug Out Backpacks. However, when planning for urban evacuation–and hours on foot through crowds–you want to avoid a pack that screams, “I’m prepared and you are not!”

Choose a pack with neutral colors which looks like a typical backpack. It still needs to be durable though, so look for one that has reinforced stitching and waterproof zippers.

2. Water Supply

When evacuating from a city, you won’t have the luxury of getting water from a stream or lake. Even if there is a water source in your city, it is likely tainted with chemicals and other pollutants–things that typical water filters and purification tablets can’t treat. 

You’ll still want a water filter or purification tablets in your BOB so you can treat water once you get out of the city. However, you’ll need to carry at least one gallon of water (per person) in your pack to get you there. 

Plastic canteens are a good solution because they are durable but don’t weigh down your BOB. Hydration packs can also be a good solution because they collapse as you empty them. 

Pro Tip: Water treatment facilities often fail during disasters. Even if tap water is available, it might not be safe to drink. 

3. Food and Nutrition

Choose lightweight, calorie-dense foods. Energy bars, nuts, dried fruits, and Meals Read to Eat (MREs) are ideal. Avoid any foods that require cooking. Cooking not only wastes precious time, but the flame can draw unwanted attention to yourself or be a hazard if gas leaks are present. 

Also read: How many calories per day for bugging out?

4. Personal Protection 

Urban disasters also increase the risk of physical harm from theft, debris, fires, chemical spills, and broken glass. Pack these items to protect yourself:

• Respirator Mask: Such as an N95 mask 
• Boots: With thick soles 

• Heavy-Duty Gloves: Such as tactical gloves

• Self-Defense Weapons: Such as a firearm or pepper spray 

5. Compact First-Aid Kit

In the event that your personal protection items aren’t enough, you’ll need a first aid kit. It should be comprehensive, but still compact.  In addition to personal medications and pain relievers, we recommend an IFAK trauma kit to deal with heavy bleeding. 

Also read: How to create a medical kit

6. Communication Gear

Cell service often fails or is overloaded during urban disasters, meaning it might be impossible to call your loved ones. This can be particularly disastrous if the emergency occurs while you aren’t at home. 

Emails and other electronic messages can often still go through though, so you will want an emergency power supply to charge your phone. Walkie-talkies or handheld radios can also be a good option for communication.

However, the most important thing isn’t gear. You need a communication plan.

Parts of a Good Communication Plan:

• Methods of communication 
• Meeting points
• Emergency contact list 

7. Navigation Tools 

When trying to evacuate a city during a disaster, your path could be easily blocked by crowds, downed power lines, or other obstacles. It is critical that you have alternate escape routes–which means being able to navigate effectively.

The map app on your phone might not be working. Make sure you have an up-to-date map of the area and a compass. You’ll want to laminate it or put it in a waterproof folder so it stays safe during storms. 

8. Multipurpose Tools

Tools like lock-picking kits, pry bars, and saws can help you access supplies and shelter, or remove obstacles from your escape route. The problem is that these tools are often heavy and can slow you down. 

Instead of trying to pack every tool you might need, look for multipurpose tools instead. At the very least, you’ll want a durable multi-tool. 

9. Emergency Lighting 

Having a reliable light source means you will be able to see obstacles and hazards even at night. While any illumination is better than nothing, a headlamp is the best option because you can use it hands-free. Make sure it has a waterproof rating of at least IPX4, which is enough to withstand rain and splashes. A dimmable headlamp is also useful for conserving battery. 

10. Protection from the Elements

When bugging out in the wilderness, shelter typically means a tent or tarp setup. In cities, however, you can often take shelter in abandoned buildings. A shelter would just call attention to yourself. 

You still need to protect yourself from the elements though. This means having moisture-wicking thermal base layers, rain gear, and warm clothing. You may also want to pack a space blanket or small tarp to sleep on in case the ground is wet or full of debris. 

11. Bug Out Binder with Cash

A Bug Out Binder contains copies of essential papers, such as:

• IDs
• Medical information
• Emergency contacts
• Weapon permits

These papers might not be “life or death” items, but they can make evacuation much easier. For example, you might not be able to stay in a hotel room if you can’t show your ID. Keep all items in a waterproof pouch and/or backed up securely on the cloud. 

Bug Out Binders also typically contain cash in small bills since ATMs and electronic payments might be down. 

Tips for Packing Your Urban Bug-Out Bag

• Keep it Light and Compact: You might have to carry your bag for miles, sometimes through crowded or blocked streets. Prioritize essentials and avoid unnecessary bulk.
• Be Ready to Move: Keep your Bug Out Bag somewhere accessible. You may need to have multiples, such as one at home and one at work. 
• Practice Your Route: Know several evacuation routes from your home or workplace. Urban environments can change quickly during emergencies, so flexibility is key.
• Update Regularly: Rotate food, batteries, and medications as needed to ensure your gear stays fresh and functional.

There’s no one-size-fits-all answer. Each situation is different, and a lot depends on the nature of the threat, your location, and your ability to move safely. Let’s break it down.

Assessing Your Threat and Environment

The first step in deciding between sheltering-in-place or bugging out is to evaluate the nature of the emergency.

• Shelter-in-Place is usually the best option when the threat is immediate but localized, such as chemical spills, winter storms, or civil unrest nearby. Staying inside a secure location can keep you safe from outside dangers.
• Bug-out becomes necessary when your current location is unsafe or unsustainable, such as during wildfires, flooding, or long-term infrastructure failure. In these scenarios, you will need to relocate to a safer location. 

Questions to Help You Decide: Stay or Go?

It isn’t just the nature of the emergency that matters. Numerous factors–including the severity of the threat, your access to resources, and physical ability–can also affect the decision. The following questions can help you decide whether to stay or go.

• Is my current location safe from immediate threats (fire, flooding, structural damage)?
• Can I secure the building to protect against external threats (chemical, biological, civil unrest)?
• Do I have enough supplies to last until conditions improve?
• Is it safer to remain indoors than to evacuate?
• Are evacuation routes open, safe, and accessible to me and my group?
• Can I physically manage moving myself, my family, and the required supplies?
• Do I have a reliable destination or bug-out location ready?
• How long can I realistically sustain myself if I leave my current shelter?
• What communication options do I have to stay informed or call for help?
• Have authorities issued clear instructions to evacuate or shelter-in-place?

Plan Ahead to Make Better Decisions 

Disaster situations are chaotic. Trying to make smart decisions during this stress is difficult and mistakes can happen. Anything you do in advance to prepare will improve the chances of making the right call. 

To start with, you will need to:

1. Make a list of likely disasters in your area.
2. Identify the unique dangers each event presents.
3. Research which supplies you need to safely shelter-in-place or bug out.
4. Create a detailed bug-out plan, including where to go.
5. Start stockpiling supplies.

The more prepared you are, the clearer–and more confident–your choices will be!

Gear Essentials: Shelter-in-Place vs. Bugging Out 

Regardless of whether you stay put or bug out, you will need the same categories of gear. These are: food, water, shelter and security, power, first aid and hygiene, tools, and communication.

The difference lies in how you select these items. Shelter-in-place gear should be designed for long-term use in a fixed location, even if the grid goes down. Bug-out gear, on the other hand, should prioritize lightweight, versatile, and durable items that you can carry with you on the move.

Food 

Shelter-in-Place Food

Stockpile enough non-perishable food to last at least 72 hours—preferably longer.  While you can stockpile non-perishables like rice and dry beans, remember that you may not be able to cook, such as if there is a power outage or gas leak. Because of this, your shelter-in-place food should also consist of non-cooked items like MREs.

Bug-Out Food

Choose lightweight, calorie-dense food that you can eat on the move without much preparation. Energy bars, jerky, trail mix, and MREs are all good options. 

Water

Shelter-in-Place Water

The CDC recommends storing at least one gallon of water per person, per day, for a minimum of three days. However, most Americans use more water than this, so aiming for at least two weeks is better. Consider adding water barrels, rainwater collection, and water purification methods to allow for a long-term supply.

Bug-Out Water

Carry enough water for at least 24–72 hours, plus lightweight water purification methods such as water filters and purification tablets, so you can treat water from lakes and streams. Collapsible bottles or hydration bladders help keep you mobile.

Shelter and Security

Shelter-in-Place Shelter and Security

When sheltering in place, you may need to reinforce your home in order to remain safe. It varies depending on the type of disaster, but you may need items like plywood for reinforcing windows or sandbags for keeping floodwater out. 

Bug-Out Shelter and Security

Choose a lightweight, durable shelter, such as a small tent or bivvy, to stay sheltered while you bug out. Sleeping bags and pads are necessary in cold weather. For personal safety, self-defense items like pepper spray and a licensed firearm are options. 

Power

Shelter-in-Place Power 

Backup power sources, such as spare batteries and power banks, can keep essential devices running during a blackout. If your budget allows it, you can invest in more powerful solutions, such as generators and solar power setups with battery storage.

Bug-Out Power

Hand-crank or solar-powered phone chargers can keep your phone or GPS functional. If bugging out by vehicle, a power station is also an option. 

First Aid and Hygiene

Shelter-in-Place First Aid and Hygiene 

Your first aid kit should be well-stocked to handle a range of injuries and health issues, as well as any personal medications. Don’t overlook hygiene items. You’ll need an emergency toilet, gloves, disinfectant, sanitary items, and masks. 

Bug-Out First Aid and Hygiene

Your bug-out first aid kit should be compact and lightweight, designed to treat injuries on the move — cuts, sprains, blisters, and major bleeds. Antiseptic wipes, pain relievers, bandage materials, and tweezers are essential. Hygiene items are less crucial on the move, but you will still want disinfectants. 

Tools

Shelter-in-Place Tools

Disasters can damage your home. To stay put, you will need tools and supplies to fix damage, such as tarps for sealing broken windows or roofs, a wrench to shut off water valves or gas mains, or saws to clear debris. 

Bug-Out Tools and Resources

Your bug-out tool kit should be small, lightweight, and versatile. Items like a multi-tool, paracord, a knife, and duct tape allow you to do tasks like patching gear, creating shelters on the go, or fashioning a splint. 

Communication

Shelter-in-Place Communication

Hand-crank or battery-powered radios help you stay informed about the disaster. A backup phone or a landline can be useful if service drops.

Bug-Out Communication

Like with staying put, you’ll need an emergency radio for bugging out. However, you’ll also need a communication plan in case you get separated from your loved ones. 

Getting Started

Preparing for emergencies can feel overwhelming, but the best approach is to start with simple, practical steps. Identify the most likely disasters in your area, honestly consider whether you’d shelter in place or bug out in each scenario, and begin building a supply kit that supports both options safely and effectively.

Essential Safety Features Every Bunk Bed Should Have

Safety Rails: Your First Line of Defense

Bunk beds sold as a fixed set that can only be used together come with safety rails and built-in ladders by law. This ensures a safe sleeping arrangement for people of all ages. If you purchase a bed that can be separated (debunk-able) - meaning it can be used as single beds or together - it's really up to you since they can be arranged however you need. However, we strongly recommend rails for safety, especially since most people are used to sleeping on wider beds and may toss and turn at night.

Our side rails bolt on quickly, and you'll be glad you have them after the first good night's sleep. For military bunk beds and commercial applications, reinforced safety rails provide additional durability while maintaining compliance with safety regulations.

Ladder Options: Accessibility and Convenience

Our bunk bed ladders are designed to attach to the sides of the beds and simply hang using hooks. They can be quickly moved as needed and make accessing the top bunk much easier. While you can climb up from the ends, we find that anyone over their teen years struggles with this method, and you'll constantly need to crawl over the foot of the bed.

Military-grade bunk beds often feature more robust ladder systems designed for frequent use and higher weight capacities, ensuring years of reliable service in demanding environments.

Comprehensive Sizing Guide for Bunk Beds

Common Sizing Mistakes to Avoid

Common Mistake #1: When looking at bunk bed dimensions, only checking the mattress size. Don't forget to account for the frame! This can easily add over 4" in width and 6" in length. And don't worry about mattress height just yet - most bunk bed frames can accommodate deeper mattresses without issue. Modern bunk beds aren't limited to thin mattresses anymore.

Height Considerations for Comfortable Use

For comfortable sleeping on the top bunk, you need at least 36" of clearance from the top deck frame to the ceiling (not including the headboard or mattress). Most standard bunk beds measure 74" to the headboard, but the top deck on our University bunk beds sits at only 61". In this case, you'd need a ceiling height of at least 97" (about 8') for standard models.

Military barracks and dormitories often have specific ceiling height requirements that dictate bunk bed selection, making low-profile options essential in certain applications.

Low Ceiling Solutions

Have low ceilings? No problem! Some of our bunk beds feature shorter legs to accommodate tighter spaces. While this limits under-bed storage, the space between bunks remains a safe 36".

Length Options for Different Needs

Bunk beds come in both standard and extended lengths. Our small-space models use 1.5" tubular steel instead of 2" to reduce overall size while maintaining sleeping comfort. The Camp Solid Metal Bunk Bed features angle iron steel for even greater space savings.

For commercial environments, military applications, or taller guests (6'2"+), consider our extended-length options. Hotels often love our loft designs, which can be arranged along walls with perpendicular queen beds underneath for maximum space efficiency.

Military-Grade Bunk Beds: Built for Durability and Performance

Military bunk beds require exceptional durability and stability. Our military-grade options feature:

• Heavy-duty steel construction with reinforced welds
• Higher weight capacities (up to 500 lbs per bunk)
• Corrosion-resistant finishes for longer service life
• Modular designs for easy assembly and reconfiguration
• Compatible with standard military mattress sizes
• Optional integrated storage solutions

These specialized bunk beds are ideal for military barracks, training facilities, and other high-demand environments where durability and space efficiency are paramount.

Spring Deck vs. Slats: Understanding Your Support Options

Spring Decks: Flexible Support

Traditional spring decks, now improved with "continuous" design, eliminate the sagging issues of older models. These flexible systems:

• Work well with 4" foam bunk bed mattresses
• Are lightweight and easy to handle
• Perfect for military, camps, and general use
• Not recommended for shelters or correctional facilities due to safety considerations

Metal Slat Decks: Superior Stability

Our steel slat systems offer superior stability:

• Welded construction prevents loose screws
• Support heavier weight limits
• Provide rigid sleeping surface
• Require minimum 6" mattress thickness for comfort
• Compatible with any standard-sized mattress for maximum comfort

Military installations typically prefer metal slat systems for their durability and maintenance-free operation, making them ideal for high-traffic environments.

To Bunk or Debunk: Flexibility for Changing Needs

Debunk-able Systems: Maximum Versatility

Debunk-able beds offer incredible flexibility for changing needs. Our shipping includes:

• Two headboards and footboards
• Two bed decks
• Four adapter sets (extending 14" deep for stability)

Each adapter locks securely into the frame - no worrying about them being kicked loose. With each bed weighing over 75 pounds, stability is built-in. Weight limits are 275 lbs for the top bunk and 375-400 lbs for the bottom (conservatively rated).

Fixed Bunk Systems: Ultimate Durability

For environments requiring maximum durability or higher weight capacity, our fixed solid metal bunk beds are the answer. These one-piece wonders:

• Support greater weight limits
• Feature fewer parts for enhanced stability
• Include standard safety rails and end ladders
• Can accommodate side ladders if needed

Military installations, correctional facilities, and high-traffic commercial applications benefit most from these fixed systems, where durability and security are paramount concerns.

Special Considerations for Military and Commercial Applications

Space Efficiency in Barracks and Dormitories

Military barracks and similar facilities require maximum space efficiency without compromising comfort or safety. Our specialized configurations include:

• Triple-tier options for maximum capacity
• L-shaped corner configurations
• Wall-mounted designs that eliminate floor supports
• Integrated storage solutions to minimize footprint

Maintenance and Longevity

Commercial and military bunk beds face unique challenges:

• Higher frequency of use
• Multiple different users
• More rigorous cleaning requirements
• Need for replacement parts availability

Our commercial-grade bunk beds address these concerns with easily replaceable components, powder-coated finishes that resist cleaning chemicals, and construction techniques that eliminate common failure points.

Making the Right Choice for Your Specific Needs

Whether you need flexibility for a growing family, durability for military use, or space-saving solutions for tight quarters, there's a bunk bed configuration to meet your needs. Safety rails and proper ladder placement are essential for peace of mind, while choosing between spring decks and slats depends on your comfort preferences and weight requirements.

Top Choices:

Ready to find your perfect bunk bed? Consider your space, weight needs, and flexibility requirements. Our team is here to help you make the best choice for your specific situation. After all, a good night's sleep should never be compromised by the wrong bed choice!

In this guide, we’ll cover the different types available and what to look for when buying your first military surplus tent.

US Military Tents throughout History

The history of military tents in America goes back to the Revolutionary War when soldiers used simple wedge tents that were little more than a piece of heavy canvas draped over a wooden pole frame.  

It wasn’t until the 19th and 20th centuries that militaries—including the U.S. Army—began to standardize tent designs. During the Civil War, for example, Union soldiers were issued “shelter halves” that could be buttoned together to form small tents. 

As military campaigns expanded into harsher environments, the U.S. military worked to improve both materials and design. During World War I, heavier canvas tents were widely used, supported by wooden poles and guy ropes. By World War II, steel poles and reinforced seams became common, and specialized tents like field hospitals, command posts, and mess tents were introduced. The post-war period brought rapid innovation in synthetic materials, making tents lighter, stronger, and more weather-resistant.

Military Tents Today 

Today, the U.S. military now uses a wide range of shelter systems, from small, one-person bivy tents to massive inflatable structures used for command centers and field hospitals. Each branch—the Army, Marine Corps, Navy, and Air Force—has its own preferred tent systems and field standards.

These standards are set by the Defense Logistics Agency (DLA), as well as other procurement branches. They dictate everything from flame resistance to blackout capability and performance in extreme conditions. 

They are made by suppliers such as:

• Alaska Structures
• CAMSS Shelters
• Litefighter
• Outdoor Venture Corporation
• Unifire
• UTS Systems
• Weatherhaven Resources

These suppliers must pass quality control to ensure they meet military specifications (or “mil-spec”), so quality and performance is guaranteed. 

Military vs. Civilian Tents

When it comes to tents, there are plenty of civilian models available. These are often lighter weight than military tents, and sometimes durable. However, Military surplus tents offer several advantages over civilian models:

• Durability: Military tents are designed for durability, with heavy-duty materials and reinforced seams, so surplus tents will typically last generations. 
• Cost: Surplus tents are typically much cheaper than civilian models of the same quality and functionality. 
• Weather resistance: Some types of military surplus tents were designed to withstand very harsh weather. While special civilian models exist for harsh conditions, they tend to be pricier and less durable than surplus options.
• Made in the USA: The Berry Amendment of 1941 requires that key Department of Defense items—including tents—be entirely made in the USA. By contrast, most commercial tents are made abroad, typically in China.
• Support USA businesses: Most military surplus stores are based in the USA, so it’s a good way to buy Made in the USA gear and also support local small businesses. 
• Nostalgia: There is a huge nostalgic appeal to using military surplus tents, and fellow outdoors people might recognize them. 

Types of Military Surplus Tents 

Pup Tents 

The original pup tents were designed for Union soldiers in the Civil War. They consisted of two tarps that snapped together over a ridgeline to make an A-frame shelter. They allegedly got their name because soldiers said they were better suited to shelter a dog than a man. 

While pup tents were lighter and more portable than previous military tents, they didn’t have a floor, so soldiers would often have to sleep on the mud. Despite this flaw, the US military continued to use pup tents through the Korean war.  

• Features: Basic A-frame design, usually canvas construction, minimal weather protection, no floor
• Best Uses: Simple shelter, reenactments, collectors 

General Purpose (GP) Tents

The GP tent is a classic military workhorse, used for decades to house troops, equipment, and operations in the field. Available in small, medium, and large sizes, GP tents are made from heavy-duty canvas and supported by internal poles and guy lines. 

They can be heated with a stove and often feature roll-up sides for ventilation in warmer weather. Though heavier than modern tents, they’re incredibly durable and can last for years.

• Features: Canvas construction, center pole or ridge support, multiple size options
• Best uses: Base camp shelter, events, long-term outdoor storage

Combat Tents

Designed to replace canvas models like the shelter half and GP small, combat tents are freestanding, double-walled, and made of lightweight yet materials. They provide better protection from the elements and allow for quick setup and takedown. 

Combat tents are often used in field conditions where troops need a quick, reliable shelter for one or two people.  One of the most popular options is the Military Combat One Person Tent (TCOP).

• Features: Lightweight nylon or polyester construction, freestanding frame, and most have a blackout rainfly and insect netting
• Best Uses: Backpacking, field camping, bug-out shelters

Bivy Tents

Short for “bivouac,” bivy tents are minimalist shelters designed for one person. Used by special forces and long-range patrols, these tents are compact, low-profile, and easy to conceal. Most are waterproof and include insect netting.

Modern military bivy sacks, such as the US Issue Gore-Tex ACU Bivy, often integrate with a sleeping bag system. They’re ideal for fast-moving operations where weight and stealth matter.

• Features: Ultralight, waterproof fabric, low visibility, integrates with sleep systems
• Best Uses: Stealth camping, bug-out bags, solo survivalMedical Tents 

Extreme Cold Weather Tents

Also known as Arctic tents or ECWTs, these shelters are designed for subzero environments. The military uses several models, including dome-shaped or hexagonal tents built to withstand heavy snow, high winds, and freezing temperatures. 

The double-walled construction traps warmth, while vents reduce condensation. Setup is usually manageable even with gloves, and snow skirts or stake loops keep them anchored in harsh conditions.

• Features: Four-season design, double-wall construction, heavy duty poles, vestibule, snow skirt, floor opening for stove cooking or ice hole access 
• Best Uses: Winter camping, hunting in cold climates, alpine expeditions 

Modular Command Post System (MCPS) Tents

These tents consist of multiple pieces that can be pieced together into various configurations, making it a highly versatile and customizable setup. For example, a MCPS can be turned into a single-room workstation, or multiple MCPS tents can be linked together to create a multi-room command center. 

The pieces can have a surprising amount of features, such as HVAC ports and blackout linings. However, MCPS tents are not for casual camping out since a one-room setup can easily weigh over 250lbs. 

• Features: Modular layout, climate control compatibility, power and data access, compatible with boot kits for connecting to vehicle
• Best Uses: Event setups, field offices, emergency operations centers

Military Surplus Tent Materials 

One of the most important things to consider when choosing a military surplus tent is the material it’s made from. The fabric affects not only the tent’s weight and durability, but also how well it handles weather, wear, and long-term storage.

Canvas Surplus Tents 

Older military tents—especially GP tents and pup tents—were almost always made from heavy-duty canvas. This material is extremely durable and can withstand rough handling, prolonged sun exposure, and even some abrasion.

However, canvas does have its drawbacks. It’s very heavy and becomes even heavier when wet. Canvas is also highly susceptible to mildew and mold if not properly dried before storage.

Synthetic Fiber Surplus Tents

Newer models of surplus tents are typically made from synthetic materials such as nylon or polyester. These synthetics are significantly lighter than canvas, making them easier to carry and more packable. The tradeoff is that they aren’t as durable as canvas tents and, while fireproof, sparks will create holes in the material.

Many synthetic surplus tents now also have a waterproof coating, such as Durable Water Repellent (DWR) or polyurethane (PU) coatings, on them.  These help shed rain while still allowing for breathability to prevent condensation within the tent. Note that these coatings wear off over time, so you may need to reapply it before taking one of these tents into the field. 

Things to Know Before Buying Military Surplus Tent

Want to buy a surplus tent? Before you start shopping, you’ll want to know these things about buying military surplus to ensure you get the right tent and aren’t surprised by its condition.

Condition Grades

When buying military surplus tents, it’s important to pay attention to the “grade.” The grade tells you the condition of the tent.  While there is no uniform grading system, most surplus sellers use these grades:

• New: Never used
• Grade 1: Used but still in very good condition with minimal signs of wear
• Grade 2: Show some signs of wear but are still functional
• Grade 3: Show signs of wear and may require repairs 

For more, read our Guide to Military Surplus Condition Grades

Weight and Packability 

With the exception of bivvy tents and combat tents, most military surplus tents are not meant for backpacking. They are heavy and often bulky. Large models, such as medical tents, can easily weigh over 100lbs.  If you need something lightweight but still want to buy surplus, consider using a tarp shelter instead. 

Mold, Mildew and Smells 

Military tents have often been sitting in storage for long periods of time before they even make it to the surplus store. As a result, they can end up with some mold or mildew growth, or some bad smells (hardcore fans will even come to love this “surplus smell”!).  Canvas is an absorbent material, so surplus canvas tents are particularly prone to it. 

Don’t let this dissuade you though. The smell can be removed by washing or airing out. For more, read: How to Get the Smell Out of Military Surplus Gear 

Ready to start shopping? See our selection of Authentic Military Surplus Tents. 

The quick answer: they can be, but you will likely need to break them in first.

What to Expect from Military Surplus Boots

Military boots are designed for function. They’re tough, durable, and made to support your feet under heavy loads, rocky ground and long marches. Comfort is relative to what you are used to in a civilian boot. Modern combat boots have been upgraded to be lighter and more comfortable but in a lot of cases they are built heavier for the reasons above.  

On the plus side though, military boots will outlast most hiking boots many times over. I like to compare a boot such as a Danner USMC combat boot or Army Hot Weather Boot with a heavy duty welted mountaineering or backpacking boot. Military boots make exceptional work boots especially in rural environments, construction and farm work. 

New vs. Used Military Boots

Used boots, while durable enough to last through several owners, will already be broken in. This means they may be shaped to fit the previous owner’s feet. If they are in good gently used condition they are a great buy and will last a long time. They may also have degraded insoles or misshapen heels—all of which can affect comfort and even lead to foot pain if for example a corner of the heel is worn down due to pronating from prior use.

Because of this, military boots are something you should buy new. It will take some time to break them in, but at least they will be broken in to fit your feet.  If you really want to buy used military boots, then it is best to try them on in person or buy from an online store that has a good return policy in case they don’t fit.

Also read: New vs. Used Military Surplus Gear

Sizing Military Boots

When sizing military boots, it’s important to remember that your feet will swell slightly a bit when hiking long distances over rough terrain. To accommodate the swelling, you generally need to go up half a size.  The boots shouldn’t feel loose though: you should feel like your feet can “breathe” in the boots and the boots aren’t tight anywhere. 

When fitting boots we always suggest that “Boots should fit snug in the sides, fit in the heel with room to wiggle your toes”  New boots will slip about ⅛ of an inch in the heel until they are broken in. With that in mind many military uniforms or combat boots run big. Ask before you buy how they fit.  A lot of online stores will post fit recommendations so if you're not familiar with the brand or style take their advice.

How to Break In Military Combat Boots

1. Get Your Miles In

When it comes to breaking in boots, there’s no substitute for walking in them. Because military boots are so tough, don’t expect a few strolls to be enough. You’ll need to wear the boots on many treks, ideally on different terrain, to help soften the leather and mold them to your feet.

As you are breaking in the boots, pay attention to whether there are any hot spots or painful areas. Be prepared to bandage these areas, so have a first aid kit handy.

2. Wet Method

An old school soldiers often use the wet method for breaking in their boots:

• Put the boots in a tub of water overnight.
• Dry them with a towel in the morning.
• Wear the boots throughout the day.
• Change socks frequently (or blisters will occur).
• Repeat the process the next day if there are still tight spots.

Note that this method only works if you wear the boots while wet, and ideally walk around in them a lot. If you just get the boots wet and don’t wear them, the leather can dry in ways that don’t fit your feet and the boots will become less comfortable.

3. Two Socks or Liner Method

Blisters occur when there is friction against skin, such as from poor-fitting boots that aren’t molded to your feet. Having wet feet also increases the risk of blisters because skin softens when wet. One way to reduce friction and wetness—and thus reduce blister risk.

We do not love wearing two pairs of regular socks but some people still do.  It was a thing when socks were not technical and was a way to help wick perspiration.  Now that boot socks are made with more hydrophobic material woven in it is not needed. We do recommend liners however for the break in. 

• Inner Sock: This sock should be very thin, such as a silk dress sock or even a woman’s nylon stocking. This still works really well. 
• Outer Sock Material: Cotton socks are just not the answer ever. A good technical sock does not need to be thick unless you like it. Wool blends are always great!  

The inner sock essentially acts as a base layer to wick moisture away from the feet and prevent the boot from directly rubbing on the skin. The second sock acts as insulation and further reduces friction.  If you are going to use the wet method for breaking in boots, it’s highly recommended that you wear two socks.  

4. Condition Leather Boots

If your military boots are full grain leather, use a leather conditioner to soften the material. This can speed up the break-in process and prevent cracking. The conditioner for baseball mitts is often a good choice because mitts, like military boots, are made from thick leather. We use any boot oil and there are a lot out there. Saddle Soap was the long timer standard.

5. Use Temporary Cushioning

If you're getting a lot of slipping and the size is correct adding some extra padding to take up space can be good. Another military trick is to put a couple maxi pads inside the boots while breaking them in. The pads provide some cushioning and comfort.  After a few days, remove one of the pads.  And, after another few days, switch one pad for a thinner one, until you can walk in the boots comfortably without any padding. They can be attached to the inside of the upper boot touching the top of your foot or under the insole. This helps most with heel slipping. 

6. Adjust the Lacing Method

If you still feel hot spots or are getting blisters, try different lacing techniques. There are many methods which can reduce pressure in certain areas, or provide more stability so your foot isn’t sliding around. 

Understanding different military surplus conditions—or grades—is key to making an informed purchase. In this guide, we’ll break down what the grading system means and how to evaluate military surplus before you buy. 

Why Is There a Grading System for Military Surplus?

When shopping in person at an Army Navy Store, you can inspect the gear before buying. But this isn’t possible when buying online. For that reason a grading system helps buyers understand the level of wear and tear an item has undergone, allowing them to make smarter decisions when purchasing. This is particularly important when you're buying survival items like tents, ponchos, or field equipment.  Military surplus is made to be durable so in most cases it can be used well beyond military service and buying used surplus in grades also gives it a second life before going to the dump.

Learn more in our Guide to Buying Military Surplus

The Lack of an Official Grading System

It’s important to note that there is no official, standardized grading system for military surplus. Each seller uses their own criteria to assess the condition of items. One seller may consider an item "Grade 2," while another may list it as "Grade 1."  This variability can be confusing for buyers.  Since grading is also subjective, not all grade 2 for example may be the same between companies. Be sure to read a grade description. 

We for example have the ability to repair a lot of items where most companies do not,  so larger holes or damage would be “norma use” to most but when companies repair in-house they will do so improving the quality. To make it even more challenging when surplus is sold at wholesale to dealers it is usually only in two conditions. #1 which means general used to expect a variety of holes, missing buckles but is serviceable as is or sold as #2, poor condition needing repairs or in need of functional repairs. 

That’s why it’s important to buy from a reputable seller who clearly outlines their grading system and provides honest descriptions of the condition of the items.  

Look for sellers who:

• Clearly list the item’s condition
• Explain their condition grading system
• Have good reviews and a clear return policy because expectations can be different.
• Repair in-house

By buying from reputable dealers, you’ll be able to better understand what you’re getting. At Army Navy Outdoors, we list the condition of each item and explain it in our Condition Guide. We also offer free returns on most items. See the return policy here.

Military Surplus Conditions Grade

Here’s a breakdown of the most common grading system used for military surplus:

New:

• Also Called: Unused, A+ Grade 
• Condition: These items are brand new or  “Dead Stock”, never issued or to service members
• What to Expect: These items may have been overstocked or produced in excess for military needs. They should be in pristine condition and may even be in their original packaging. Note that some new items may have been stored for long periods of time, so they still may have some dust depending on what it is. .

Grade 1:

• Also Called:  Like New 
• Condition: These items may have been un-issued or issued but have no signs of use.  To meet this grade Army Navy Outdoors for example looks at zippers, buttons and buckles for scratches and use since those are telltale signs. The color should be crisp also.  This grade is the hardest to get and would be closer to a new price but still a discount to be well worth it.
• What to Expect: Grade 1 surplus items typically have minor signs of use, such as small stains or storage marks, but none of these imperfections should affect the functionality of the item. 

Grade 2:

• Also Called: Grade B, General Used 
• Condition: These items were used and show more noticeable signs of wear.
• What to Expect: Items in this category are often more “broken in” and have obvious signs of use and storage, such as stains, small holes, scratches, or surface rust. While these items might need minor repairs, they are generally still functional and represent a great value, especially for the price. If you’re looking for items that are inexpensive and still serve their intended purpose, Grade 2 surplus can be a good choice and the most common. 

Grade 3:

• Also Called: Grade C, Excessive Use, Salvage
• Condition: These items have considerable wear and tear and may not be fully functional without repairs.
• What to Expect: Grade 3 surplus items are the most worn and typically have visible damage, such as large holes, bad zippers, missing or broken buckles that are functional etc.  While some may still be functional, they will likely need repairs before being used for critical tasks. It is recommended that you test the gear before taking it into the field. 
• Some of this grade is good for turn-in CIF.  Note however that over the years turn-in gear still needs to be in condition that was used in normal use or the soldier can be charged back.  A broken zipper however may be okay and expected but a missing shoulder strap is not.  Pro-hack In a lot of cases they can be turned into your units resupply as damaged in the field then used to turn into CIF.  Do this early since it may not work the day before you need to go to CIF.

When Condition Matters

When it comes to military surplus, condition matters for functionality. A Grade 1 waterproof jacket will likely be just as good as a new one, while a Grade 3 jacket may let water through. Understanding the grade will help you gauge whether an item fits your needs and your budget.

For more on this, read: New vs. Used Military Surplus

Should You Buy New or Used Military Surplus Gear?

Contrary to common belief, not all items at military surplus stores are used. You can also find new items that were never issued to service members, often because of overproduction or overstock. While the used items might be cheaper and have more character, there are some situations where it’s better to choose new gear.

How Is Military Surplus Legal for Civilians to Buy?

When the military no longer needs certain equipment—whether due to overproduction, outdated standards, or the end of a contract—it often sells it off through government auctions. Surplus dealers then buy this gear and resell it to the public through online platforms or physical stores. This process is entirely legal and well-regulated since there are invoices and a chain of custody.  Stores also buy military gear from soldiers after they get out. 

Some items do not need to be turned in after service when they are no longer in use. Many soldiers also buy extra gear and uniforms themselves at the uniform supply shops on base. We used to see a lot of soldiers who retire after 25 years plus and have a lot of extra or out of service gear they are happy to let move on.

For more, read our Guide to Buying Military Surplus and How Military surplus gets to market.

What about Stolen Military Surplus Gear?

There are cases where military gear has been stolen from supply.  For example, there have been cases where soldiers have stolen items from military bases and sold them on Ebay and other sites. We have even seen entire pallets of specialized gear that were not supposed to have ever been sold by the government.  While this is not likely, you should still keep an eye out for red flags.  In the early 1980’ and 90’s this was a more widespread issue.  A reputable dealer even buying items directly from soldiers has a process to record who and what was purchsed. 

• Scratched-off or removed serial numbers
• Items marked “U.S. Government Property” that aren’t normally sold as surplus
• Sellers unwilling to provide a source or origin

When in doubt, buy from reputable surplus dealers who source their inventory legally.

Buying Military Ordnance Legally

“Military ordnance” refers to weapons like artillery, grenades, rocket launchers, and certain types of body armor. In most cases, it's illegal for civilians to buy or own active ordnance.

That’s why, for example, you can always find authentic tactical vests with armor in surplus shops, but they’ll be missing the armor plates—the plates are removed to comply with legal standards.

However, there are exceptions when you can buy military ordnance legally:

• Deactivated ordnance: Some types of ordnance can be legally sold if they’ve been permanently deactivated and can't be reactivated. These items are often collected for display or historical purposes.
• Legal exceptions: There are some narrow exceptions which allow active ordnance to be sold in very specific situations. For example, under § 621.2, individuals can buy an M1 service rifle if they are in a marksmanship club affiliated with the Director of Civilian Marksmanship (DCM). But don’t expect to find these items in your average surplus store—they require background checks and special procedures.
• It happens: At times some of these items are mixed-in with legally purchased lots of wholesale goods from the government.  In this case there is a clear custody invoice and is now legally owned by the retialer. Keep in mind that the U.S.Army may buy millions of these items and a few hundred can slip out legally. 

Is It Legal to Buy Military Ammunition Casings?

Yes. Empty ammunition casings—such as those collected from firing ranges—are considered scrap metal, not ordnance. They are commonly resold as surplus and are perfectly legal to buy, sell, and own.

Stolen Valor Act and Army Surplus

Many people incorrectly believe that it is illegal for civilians to own or wear military gear. This comes from a misunderstanding of the Stolen Valor Act.  

Many surplus clothing items often have name tags, rank and unit patches still on them. Many soldiers remove them before turn-in. This is not a violation of Operations Security however known as OPSEC. We hear this often from overzealous online comments.  OPSEC  is for keeping the enemy from knowing information about missions, movements, soldier counts in the field etc. Knowing the name of a prior soldier and their unit from years ago has no bearing.  

What Is the Stolen Valor Act?

The original Stolen Valor Act was passed in 2005. Its purpose was to make it a crime for anyone to falsely claim they had received U.S. military medals or awards, such as the Medal of Honor or the Purple Heart. The name “Stolen Valor” comes from the idea that people wearing the clothing are trying to give the impression that they are tough or noble, without having actually served.  

However, in 2012, the Supreme Court struck down the original version of the law in United States v. Alvarez, ruling that the act of lying—even about military service—is protected under the First Amendment as free speech.

In response, Congress passed a revised version of the Stolen Valor Act in 2013. The updated law narrowed the scope: now, it’s only illegal to falsely claim military honors if you’re doing so to obtain a tangible benefit. That might include trying to get a government job, financial assistance, a promotion, or some other material reward by pretending to be a decorated veteran.

For example:

• Wearing a surplus uniform to a costume party? Legal.
• Collecting medals for display in your home? Legal.
• Dressing up as a soldier in a theatrical performance or reenactment? Legal.
• Wearing a Navy SEALuniform to get a free meal or land a government contract? Illegal.

The bottom line is this: it is legal to buy and wear military surplus gear, including uniforms, medals, or insignia—as long as you’re not pretending to be a decorated service member to get something of value.

If you’re ready to dive in but aren’t sure where to start, this guide will walk you through what you need to know to find genuine gear and make smart purchases.

What is Military Surplus?

Military surplus is gear that is no longer needed by the military. Instead of throwing these items away, the military sells them—typically in large liquidation auctions—and the buyers then resell the items to the general public.  It is a mistake to also think that all Military Surplus is always used. Most items are; however, a good percentage of what is called “Surplus” can be in new unused condition or has never issued which is called “Dead Stock”

Typically, it consists of older items that were discontinued because of upgrades or simple changes to standards. However, you can also find some current issues that the military had too much of because of overproduction. Learn how military surplus gets to the market for a good understanding on how it  got here to begin with.

What Can You Find at Military Surplus?

The military uses a huge range of gear, so there is almost no end to the types of items you can find at military surplus. Some of the most common types of military surplus are:

• Clothing: Jackets, parkas, combat pants, hats, gloves, socks, shirts, long underwear, accessories like belts.
• Footwear: Combat boots, duty boots, snow boots
• Gear: Large rucksacks, smaller military backpacks, tactical Vests, pouches, field gear, mess kits
• Outdoor Gear: Sleeping bags, tents, woobies, ponchos, MREs, lights, shovels, field furniture
• Personal Equipment: Gas masks, helmets, ballistic goggles, hearing protection, knee and elbow pads, hydration systems, first aid kits

Terminology to Know

When shopping for military surplus, you'll come across a lot of terms and acronyms. You’ll need to know these in order to make sure you are getting genuine military surplus gear.

Issue / Issued Gear
Refers to items that were officially issued to service members. This gear is authentic and was part of a soldier’s standard kit. If you see “U.S. Issue” or “G.I. Issue,” it’s the real thing. USGI is also a common term (United States Genuine Issue)

DRMO (Defense Reutilization and Marketing Office)
This was the former U.S. government agency responsible for disposing of excess military gear. While now renamed (it's part of the DLA Disposition Services), the term "DRMO" still floats around and refers to genuine military surplus. It also used to be a place on bases where civilians can walk in, however this has gone away and is now placed in a centralized auction or scrapped. 

DLA (Defense Logistics Agency)
The current agency that handles the distribution and disposal of U.S. military surplus. Items marked as DLA property or with DLA stickers are authentic.

NSN (National Stock Number)
A unique 13-digit code used by NATO countries to catalog and track military items. If a surplus item has an NSN, it’s almost certainly genuine and traceable to a specific military contract. It is easy to simply Google a NSN number and you can also look them up in a database.

DEMIL (Demilitarized)
Indicates an item has been modified to make it safe or legal for civilian use (e.g., removing optics from a scope or deactivating a weapon). DEMIL items are still genuine surplus but have been altered. In most cases DEMILed of clothing and some gear has been cut or made not operable in its original form.  Often We can rebuild and repair some of this gear for a new life for civilian use.

Turn-in
A term for gear returned by service members at the end of deployment or duty. These items may show signs of wear but are typically still functional and authentic.

MIL-SPEC (Military Specification):
This refers to equipment or clothing that meets the technical standards set by the U.S. Department of Defense. MIL-SPEC items are built to be rugged, reliable, and uniform across branches—but it does not mean it was issued by the military and thus is not real military surplus.

Commercial Spec or “Military-Style”:
These are civilian-made products that look like military gear but don’t meet the same standards or specifications. They can be a good budget option and oftentimes may be imported. We find they can still work well and serve your purpose in civilian use. Not all copies are bad. 

CIF:  Central Issue Facility:  This is basically the name for the current Turn-In facility for all soldiers across all branches.  Gear needs to be in somewhat serviceable condition and cleaned prior to turn-in. Soldiers turn-in military gear to CIF when they either get out of service or need to upgrade existing gear. It can be a big process and if not done right costs soldiers money to replace missing gear. Due to this there are now CIF Cleaning shops that help soldiers do this. 

Here is an example of How to turn in gear to CIF from the U.S. Army we thought would be interested to see

Why Are Some Military Surplus Items Cheap While Others Are Expensive? 

When shopping for military surplus, you’ll notice that there are often huge variations in prices. Just because it is all used does not mean it was all the same price in the supply chain. Just like any market prices may also be based on supply and demand as well as other factors. Even on the same items you can see big differences in stores on the same item.  You may see prices for example on our site even fluctuate.  When we have a lot of inventory, we are not worried about running out and may mark even expensive items down so as many people as possible can get them.  As we also wrote about how military items get to stores there could be a lot of waste or needed repairs when items are procured.  There are other main reasons including the condition and collectible or vintage status of an item. 

Does the Original Cost Matter?

Keep in mind that each item was also manufactured and had an original cost which in some factor is still passed down through the supply chain.  Many items that were made for the military from known brands like Eagle Industries or Specialty Defense (manufactured for military contracts) are still available in new condition from the brand on the market.  For us at Army Navy Outdoors we consider surplus a value that is in good condition when we can sell it for about half of the original retail or less.  It is common for us for example to sell a used MOLLE pouch for $15 that sells for $40-50 in new condition. 

Condition

A lot of military surplus items are used. Because military items are made to be durable, this usually doesn’t affect the functionality of the item. However, the used items may have stains, fraying, holes, or need minor repairs.  Sellers will typically label and price their surplus items based on the condition.  However, it’s worth noting that there is no official system for grading the condition.

For more on this, read our Guide to Military Surplus Condition Grades.

Collectible Status

Some military surplus items, especially ones from Vietnam or WWII, have developed cult statuses and are popular with collectors. These items, even in bad condition, will likely be much more expensive than similar items. The more patches you find the cooler they are.  We love vindate and each item can really tell a story about where it has been and even by whome.

How to Tell if It’s Genuine Military Surplus

When you’re new to buying military surplus, it can be tough to tell what’s the real deal and what’s just made to look like it. Here are some ways to know you are getting real military surplus:

1. Know Your Terminology: Remember that MIL-SPEC, “commercial spec”, and “military style” are not real military surplus.
2. Find the Branch Markings: Tags may say “U.S. Army,” “USMC,” or other branch names. Look for official-looking stamps or stencils rather than flashy commercial branding.  This is not always the case so it can be a marking but if it's not there do not just dismiss the gear. 
3. Look for Contract Numbers:  These are usually found on tags inside clothing or stamped onto gear. They show that the item was made for a military contract.
4. Be Wary of Cheap Gear: If the price seems too good to be true, especially for vintage or collectible gear, then it is probably a knockoff. Many copies also replicate the look of the real label but unlike real issues they have to print on that or another tag where it is made. 
5. Buy from Reputable Sellers: The best way to avoid knockoffs is to only buy from sellers that have good reviews and clearly state the condition of their products.
6. Limited Details: Most real U.S. Surplus will not have “made in the U.S.A” or even the contract manufacturer or brand on the tag. This is mostly done for two reasons.  1. Security operations.  If gear is found or on a solder they may not want to be known as to where they are from. And, the contract manufacturer can change and the item should be the same no matter who makes it. 
7. Color and Fabric Feel:  Online it may be hard to tell the true color however when questioning authentic surplus the first thing we look at is how the material feels.  Original U.S. fabric has its own feel and texture that is not easily copied.  The color may also be a tell tale sign especially when it comes to camo.  Olive for example is also hard to copy when the U.S. used for example OG-107 and that material is still expensive and hard to match.  Remember when an item is used, colors change. 
8. Off Supply Purchasing: Over the years military units had the ability to purchase specialty items not carried in supply as long as they met the standards needed for Berry Compliant (U.S. Made) or TAA currently (Trade Agreements Act).  At our warehouse we may get a variety of items that were not general issues to the branch but did come directly from a military unit. Does that still mean they are “Military Issue”?

Improved Modular Sleeping System (IMSS) Review

In 1998, the US Military introduced their Modular Sleeping System (MSS). The system consisted of three key parts that could be used separately or together depending on the temperature conditions. Even though it was bulky, the MSS was (and still is) really popular with civilians. The MSS remained unchanged until 2007, when the Military updated it to the Improved Modular Sleeping Bag System (IMSS).

Components of the IMSS

Just like the MSS, the IMSS consists of three main pieces that you can use individually or combine. There are also two stuff sacks with the IMSS, as opposed to just one stuff sack with the previous system. Here are the key components of the IMSS.

1. Patrol Sleeping Bag

The Mitliary Patrol Sleeping bag is the lightest sleeping bag of the three-part system. It is rated for temperatures of down to 30F. However, remember that the Military lists survival temperature ratings. The comfort rating of this bag is closer to 40F, or 50F if you are a cold sleeper.

The sleeping bag is fairly basic in that it doesn’t have any baffles. It does have a drawstring hood (which was not on the previous MSS) and snaps for connecting it to the Intermediate Bag.

However, it has one very cool feature: there is a separate zipper on the bottom so you can open up the foot area. This allows you to adjust the ventilation for better temperature control in warm climates. In theory, you could also sleep with your boots on and leave them sticking out of the bottom.

• Temperature: 30F to 50F
• Outer Material: Water resistant rip-stop nylon
• Inner Material: Climashield continuous filament polyester insulation
• Size: 80" L x 34.28" W
• Weight: 2lbs 7oz

2. Intermediate Cold Weather (ICW) Sleeping Bag

ICW sleeping bag can be used by itself or over the Patrol bag. By itself, the bag is comfortable for temperatures around 30F. When used with the Patrol bag, the system is suitable for temps down to -10F.

Because the ICW bag is meant to be used over the Patrol bag, it is a bit wider than your typical sleeping bag. Large men will appreciate this because they won’t feel cramped, or compress the insulation. However, if you are smaller in stature, you won’t want to use the ICW by itself: there will be too much extra room in the bag, meaning it won’t trap heat as well.

As far as features go, this bag does have baffles to prevent insulation from moving around. There is a draft collar and hood for heat retention. The footbox has twice the amount of insulation in order to help feet stay warmer.

• Temperature: -10F to 30F
• Outer Material: Water resistant rip-stop nylon
• Inner Material: Climashield continuous filament polyester insulation
• Size: 80" L x 34.28" W
• Weight: 3lbs 10oz

3. Bivy Bag

The final component of the IMSS is the bivy bag with ACU camo design (the older MSS used Woodland camo). The bivy is made of waterproof Gore-Tex material and meant to be used over one or both of the sleeping bags. You can also use it with any other sleeping bag.

As far as bivy bags go, it’s pretty simple in design but really nicely built. The seams are completely sealed, there are snaps to fasten it to the other sleeping system components, and you can easily pull it closed from the inside.

Note: the Marine Corps version of the IMSS has a bug screen over the face area but the Army version doesn’t have this feature.

• Material: Gore-Tex
• Size: 80" L x 34.28" W
• Weight: 1lb 14oz

How Warm Is the IMSS?

It’s hard to get an exact temperature rating for the Improved Modular Sleep System. Even specs on the Military and vendor sites don’t always match up. However, most sources rate the system of down to -30F.

No, you won’t be warm at -30F.

Military temperature ratings are listed for survival of up to 4 hours. A more realistic comfort rating is around -10F.

Waterproofness

The IMSS bivy is made from waterproof Gore-Tex. Yes, Gore-Tex is actually waterproof. However, before you sleep outside in the rain with the IMSS, you need to know about waterproof ratings.

Gore-Tex has a waterproof rating of 28,000mm, which is considered very high. In technical terms, this means the fabric can hold up against a 28,000-millimeter (or 30 yards) column of water pressing down on it without leaking. This is tested by placing a sample of the material under a clear tube filled with water and measuring the height of the water column the fabric can support before water seeps through.

Obviously, rain falls from much higher than 30 yards. So, while you can expect a high degree of waterproofness from the IMSS bivy, it will let some water through in heavy rains. Likewise, if you press it against water, leakage will occur. So, you don’t want to sleep directly on very wet ground or in the rain without a shelter.

Size

The biggest downside of the IMSS is that it is very large and bulky. Even the individual sleeping bags are fairly heavy and bulky compared to their non-military sleeping bags with similar temperature ratings.

With the stuff sacks, the entire IMSS setup weighs over 9lbs. Even though the entire IMSS system packs into the bivy nicely, it packs down to a huge 19.5x23.5 x 10 inches. It will barely fit into a rucksack. You’ll either need to hang it off of your ruck, which isn’t exactly balanced, or pack the components separately.

Cost

While a lot heavier and bulkier than commercial counterparts, the IMSS is much more affordable—especially when you consider that it comes with two sleeping bags plus a bivy shelter. You can also buy the components separately, though it rarely ends up being as good of a deal. Just note that the Improved MSS system is foliage green (Patrol bag) and gray (Intermediate bag), and the older system is green and black.

Verdict

The IMSS is definitely not a sleep system for long-distance hiking, and it doesn’t have all the bells and whistles that you’ll find on many commercial sleeping bag systems. However, the simplicity is one of the main things to like about the IMSS, since it’s easy to use and holds up well. Just be realistic that it won’t keep you comfortable at -30F or dry in heavy rains.

You can get the Improved Modular Sleeping System here.

How to Stay Truly Warm in Your Sleeping Bag

You went out and bought the warmest sleeping bag you could find, expecting it would keep you warm in cold temperatures. Yet, you still ended up freezing through the night. It might not be the sleeping bag which is at fault but rather how you used it. Here’s what you need to know to truly stay warm in a sleeping bag.

First, Check the Comfort Rating

Most good sleeping bags will list their temperature rating. However, the rating you see is usually the limit or extreme temperature and not the temperature at which you will feel comfortable.

For example, the ACU Modular Sleeping Bag System (which is one of the most popular US Military sleeping bags) has a rating of -20°F. However, this is the temperature at which you’ll stay alive. The comfort rating is more likely around -10 to 0°F.

Next, Look At Your Complete Setup

A good sleeping bag won’t keep you warm if you aren’t insulated from the cold ground. You’ll need an insulated pad to put underneath you. The good sleeping bags will list their insulation value, or tell the comfort level.

Pro Tip: Have a subpar sleeping pad? Pile leaves, pine boughs, or other fluffy materials underneath you for an extra layer of insulation.

Fluff Your Sleeping Bag

Sleeping bags contain fluffy layers of insulation. Air pockets within the insulation are what trap your body heat, allowing you to stay warm. If the insulation gets compacted, it won’t have as many air pockets, and thus won’t be able to trap heat well. This is particularly true of down sleeping bags, since the feathers can clump together.

A simple solution to fix this is to fluff your sleeping bag when you set up camp. Give it several good shakes, ensuring that the insulation is “lofted” and well distributed.

Be Cautious About How You Wash Your Sleeping Bag

Residue from detergent can linger in your sleeping bag, causing insulation to clump and lose its loft. To avoid this, you should only wash your sleeping bag as instructed. Consider getting a detergent especially for tech items. Or, run an extra rinse cycle to get rid of detergent residues.

Avoid Wearing Too Many Layers

One common sleeping bag mistake is assuming that wearing layers will always keep you warmer. Yes, you need dedicated warm pajamas to wear while sleeping. However, too many layers can restrict your blood flow (making you feel cold and possibly compress the bag’s insulation (reducing its effectiveness).

Even worse, wearing too many layers can cause you to start sweating. Remember, sleeping bags work by trapping your body heat, so it can take a little while before you warm up in the bag. If you enter the sleeping bag with so many layers on that you are already warm, you will overheat once the bag traps your heat. Sweat will cause you to get wet, which in turn will make you feel cold due to evaporative heat loss.

The image below shows the US Military recommendations for sleep attire.

Warm Up Before You Get In

Instead of layering up, a better way to feel warm immediately in your sleeping bag is to do some exercise before you crawl in. Run a few laps around camp, or do some jumping jacks. Your body will produce heat and the sleeping bag will trap it, so you don’t have to wait as long to feel warm.

Never Put Your Face In Your Sleeping Bag

Another common sleeping bag mistake is putting your face inside the bag. Yes, your warm breath will make you feel warmer temporarily. As you continue to breathe in your bag, though, it will start to get damp from moisture in your breath. A wet setup is a cold setup, and you will end up freezing. Bring a full mask to keep your face warm instead when in very cold temperatures.

Get a Sleeping Bag That Fits You

If you are a bigger person and sleeping in a standard-sized bag, you will end up compressing the insulation and it won’t be as warm. On the flip side, smaller-statured people will end up with a lot of extra space in a standard-sized sleeping bag, and it won’t be able to trap heat as well.

Smaller people can solve this by filling the empty space in the bag with dry items, such as extra clothes or gear. But there isn’t a fix for larger people, so getting the right-sized sleeping bag is crucial to staying warm.

Shop our sleeping bags for a complete selection or contact us for advice if needed.

You hopefully already have emergency essentials in your vehicle, such as jumper cables, a first aid kit, roadside reflectors, and basic repair items. But, when winter comes around, you’ll need to update your vehicle emergency kit to include these items for cold weather survival.

1. Winter-Proof Water

Water is one of the most important survival items to have, but it can easily freeze in your vehicle in winter conditions. To ensure you have emergency water even in winter:

• Store sports drinks instead: Their electrolytes will prevent freezing for another 10 degrees or so.
• Use smaller containers: Instead of storing water in a large container, use several smaller bottles. Even if they freeze, they will thaw faster than one large chunk of ice.
• Use a cooler: What keeps your drinks cold in the summer will also keep them warmer in the winter.
• Keep water inside your vehicle: Ideally, keep the water bottles inside your vehicle, such as underneath the front seat or in a cooler in your backseat. The heat from inside the vehicle will help keep the water thawed.
• Leave 10% headroom: Most water bottles you buy in the store get shipped without heating, so won’t burst if frozen. However, if you are repackaging water into your own bottles, make sure there is at least 10% empty space so they don’t burst as the water expands during freezing.
• Buy a 12v travel cup: These can be used to thaw frozen water during emergencies.

2. Winterized Bug Out Bag

Water isn’t the only survival item that can be affected by freezing temperatures. These items can also be affected by extreme cold:

• Battery-operated devices: Batteries drain faster in the cold, and can stop working completely in freezing temperatures. This includes emergency radios and flashlights.
• Medications: Some medications can lose potency when stored in extreme cold.
• Water filters: Water residue in these can freeze, causing damage to ceramic and hollow-fiber water filters, rendering them ineffective.
• Duct tape: The adhesive on duct tape can freeze, making it less sticky and effective.
• Chemical hand warmers: Ironically, these need to be stored at cool temperatures. Storing hand warmers in freezing temps can cause them to lose their effectiveness.

Because of these issues, don’t keep these survival items in your vehicle. Instead, pack a winter version of your Bug Out Bag (BOB) and put these items in it, along with water and other essentials.

Get in the habit of bringing the BOB with you whenever driving more than a certain distance from home, or when driving in remote areas. Since the BOB primarily stays at home or in the heated vehicle, you won’t have to worry about items succumbing to the cold.

3. Full Set of Winter Clothes

Even if you always dress appropriately when heading out in the cold, you’ll still want a full set of spare winter clothes in your vehicle. You’ll be grateful to have these, for example, if the clothes you are wearing get wet when you leave the vehicle.

4. Candles

A single candle can produce 80 to 100 watts of heat. While this might not seem like much, it can make a huge difference in raising the temperature inside a small space like a stranded vehicle. Just make sure you have a sturdy, heat-proof surface to put the candle on.

The brand UCO makes a candle heater. It’s designed for tents, but would also work in a vehicle. The top of the candle heater is flat so you can use it to heat water.

5. Sleeping Bags

Be sure to have a sleeping bag for each person that typically rides in your vehicle. The sleeping bags should be rated for extreme cold temperatures in case you are stranded in your vehicle for extended periods of time.

6. Vehicle Insulation Materials

In addition to sleeping bags, you’ll want materials to put up inside your vehicle for extra insulation. For example, you can cover the inside windows with wool blankets or Mylar blankets to help trap heat.

7. Bright Cloth or Flag

You should always have reflective triangles in your vehicle in case of an accident. However, if you are stranded in your vehicle, these triangles can quickly get covered in snow. To ensure you are located by rescuers, you’ll also need a bright colored cloth or flag to attach to your vehicle’s antenna.

8. Traction Aids and Snow Management

These are important to ensure you can clear snow off your vehicle and get out of drifts. They include:

• Snow shovel
• Windshield brush and scraper
• Sand, cat litter, or traction mats
• Snow chains

9. Emergency Bathroom

Each time you leave your vehicle, you will lose some of the heat trapped inside. You also risk getting covered in snow, which will then melt on your clothes and cause you to get wet. So, while it hopefully won’t come to this, you’ll need to pack an emergency bathroom in your vehicle so you don’t have to go outside. This can be as simple as a 5-gallon bucket with some of the cat litter you packed for snow traction. 

AS A PACK LINER

A dry bag is a must-have for any outdoor adventurer. A pack liner is a specialized type of dry bag that attaches to the outside of a backpack or gym bag, allowing you to easily transport gear that needs to stay dry. Packlines are perfect for hiking, kayaking, rafting, and other water sports, but can also be used for carrying extra gear on any type of hike or backpacking trip.

When choosing a dry sack to be used as a pack liner, look for one that is made from a waterproof material such as rubberized or ripstop nylon that has a sturdy closure system. The bag should also be big enough to hold all of the gear you need, but not so big that it becomes bulky or difficult to carry. A good pack liner must also have extra features such as a comfortable shoulder strap or handles for easy transport.

The medium seal line dry bag was made to be a pack liner for the assault backpacks while the large dry bag was specifically made to size for the larger MOLLE Rucksacks.

FOR ORGANIZATION

Using dry bags is a great way to organize your things when outdoors. You can fit a lot of gear in a lightweight bag like this, and it will help keep everything inside from getting wet, especially during prolonged periods of exposure. Remember, pack the heaviest items at the bottom of the bag. Make sure all zippers are closed before you seal the bag.

If possible, pack items in smaller bags inside the dry bag. This will help keep things organized and make it easier to find what you need, when you need it. Use a waterproof marker to label the contents of the bag. When packing fragile items, such as a camera, wrap them in clothing or another soft material. Inspect your bag regularly for any signs of wear or tear. Replace or repair it if necessary so it can continue to protect the essential part(s) of your loadout.

AS A COMPRESSION BAG

Compression bags are a great way to save space when packing for a trip. By packing your clothes in a compression bag, you can reduce the amount of space they take up by up to 80%. This is because the compression bag squeezes all the air inside out of the bag, which takes up a lot of space. Apart from high water resistance, SealLine USMC issue military stuff sacks have an air purge release valve to accommodate as much extra clothing and gear inside. It is a big bag of rectangular shape yet one of the most lightweight and best dry bags you'll ever find online.

AS A FLOATATION DEVICE

A dry bag is a great way to keep your belongings safe and dry while you're facing a day out on the water. Not only does it protect against the humidity of the environment, but it can also act as a floatation device if you need one. In order to do this, you will need to fill the dry bag with buoyant material, such as air, Styrofoam pellets, or gear you may already have with you. Once the dry bag is filled, you will need to seal it shut to prevent any water from getting inside and ruining the contents. This is one of the very few times that you wouldn't want to use the air release valve so be cognizant of its location at all times. Once you have sealed the dry bag, you can then proceed to attach it to your body using the straps or cords that are provided. It is important to make sure that the bag is securely attached so that it does not come loose and float away from you. You should also make sure that the dry sack is not too tight, as this could cause it to rupture and release the buoyant material inside.

AS A PILLOW

When you're out camping or backpacking, dry sacks can come in handy for a lot of things. One of the most common uses for dry sacks is as a pillow. It's more comfortable than using a regular backpack and it takes up very little space in a pack. To use a dry bag as a pillow, simply stuff it with clothes or other soft items. Then just close up the lightweight dry sack and you're good to go!

AS A BUCKET

A dry bag is a great option for an emergency bucket. It is designed to be waterproof from the inside out. So it can hold a lot of weight too. This makes it perfect for containing water when you need to transport it when nothing else more suitable is available. You can also use a dry bag to wash your clothes. Additionally, the bag can be easily dried, and it will not take up much space in your vehicle or storage area.

DIRT BAGS

Most dry bags have good water resistance, and they are even highly recyclable. When it has reached its useful limit, an old dry bag brings out another purpose such as a kitchen bag, garden bag, or washable rubbish bag. The right dry bag is absolutely multi-purpose, and its life can be extended for more years.

THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN BUYING A MILITARY DRY BAG

SIZE

A dry bag is a must-have for any outdoors person, as it can keep your belongings safe and dry in any weather condition. However, it's important to buy the right size of dry bag for your needs, as a bag that's too small will be ineffective, and a bag that's too large will be cumbersome to carry. To choose the right size dry bag, start by considering what you'll be using it for. If you're planning on using it for backpacking or hiking, you'll need a larger bag that can hold all of your gear. For casual use or day trips, a smaller bag will suffice.

WATER RESISTANCE

A water-resistant bag is a must-have for any outdoor activity to keep your belongings from moisture and wet conditions. Whether you are going on a hike, a bike ride, or just to the park, a dry bag will keep your belongings safe and dry. They are also perfect for carrying your things when near areas of water. Your items inside are still protected even when fully submerged. A water-resistant bag is a great investment for anyone who needs to spend time outdoors.

DESIGN

Dry bags are made from a variety of materials but the most common is rubberized nylon. Nylon is durable and waterproof. Usually, a simple design of the military dry bag is perfect for carrying your gear without all the hassle. The most important thing is its functionality.

PRODUCTION QUALITY

SealLine is a reputable company that makes high-quality waterproof bags. They are perfect for outdoor activities like camping, hiking, and kayaking, and they also come in handy for everyday items. SealLine bags are made with heavy-duty materials that can withstand the toughest conditions, and they feature clever designs that make them easy to use.

A sleeping bag doesn’t generate heat on its own. Instead, it works like a thermos, insulating and trapping the warmth your body produces. The effectiveness of this insulation is indicated by the sleeping bag’s temperature rating. Choosing the right sleeping bag isn’t simply about opting for the warmest model available; it’s about finding one that matches the specific conditions you’ll encounter.

If you’re unsure about which temperature rating suits your needs, follow these steps to select the perfect sleeping bag for your adventures.

1. Find the Lowest Expected Temperature

Check the weather forecast for your destination to see what lows you can expect. It’s smart to check historical weather reports as well, since temperatures can take a sudden dive.

Note that weather forecasts are given for the nearest weather station. In remote areas—especially in the mountains—the nearest weather station might be at a lower elevation. This can result in you getting an inaccurate weather report.

Not sure where you are going? Here are expected lows in North America at 6,500 feet elevation:

• Spring: Between 20°F to 35°F
• Summer: Between 35°F and 55°F
• Fall: Between 25°F and 40°F
• Winter: Between 10°F and 25°F

2. Subtract 10°F

Once you know the expected lowest temperature of your destination, subtract 10°F. You should get a sleeping bag with this temperature rating, or lower.

For example: If you expect it will get to 40°F at your destination, you should get a sleeping bag with a comfort rating of 30°F or lower.

3. Don’t Get a Too-Warm Sleeping Bag

While it is generally best to err on the side of caution and get a warmer sleeping bag than you think you will need, avoid getting one that is too warm. You will end up overheating and sweating, possibly causing your clothes and the sleeping bag to get wet. This in turn leads to evaporative heat loss, which will make you feel cold even in relatively warm temperatures.

Not sure which temperature rating to get? Consider a modular system. Modular systems are basically bags in a bag. The 3-piece Military Modular Sleep System (MSS), for example, allows you to stay comfortable at temps from 50°F down to -20°F.

4. Factor in Other Gear

There are three other important aspects to your sleep setup and staying warm:

• Sleeping pad: It insulates you from the cold ground.
• Pajamas: You should sleep in clean, dry base layers (aka thermal underwear). These Provide another layer of insulation and help wick sweat off of your body so you stay dry.
• Shelter: The shelter can prevent wind from blowing heat away from your sleeping bag.

If any of these items are subpar, then you will need to choose a sleeping bag with a temperature rating that is 5-10 degrees lower. On the flip side, if you have high-quality gear, you can get away with a sleeping bag that has a higher temperature rating.

You can check out good Military surplus tents and sleeping pad options here.

5. Age, Health and Gender Considerations

Sleeping bag ratings are determined for young, healthy users. A bag that keeps a 20-year old soldier warm at 20°F isn’t necessarily going to keep a 60 year old retiree warm. If you fall into any of these categories, dock another 5°F from the sleeping bag rating. For example, instead of a 30°F bag, you would want to get a 25°F bag.

• Skinny: Skinny people have a larger surface area for their mass, so they lose heat faster than heavyset people. They may also end up with lots of empty space in their sleeping bag, which makes it harder for the bag to trap heat.
• Low Muscle Mass: People with lots of muscle mass produce more heat and retain it better than people with low muscle mass.
• Older Age: Metabolism slows down with age, so you will need a warmer sleeping bag as you get older.
• Female: Women are typically colder sleepers than men, so will require a warmer sleeping bag.

6. Skills and Experience

Experienced outdoors people know tricks to keep warm, such as putting their feet in their pack, venting a shelter to reduce condensation, and filling dead space in a sleeping bag with dry gear. It’s still best to have a sleeping bag rated for the actual conditions, but these skills can help you stay comfortable even when the temperatures drop below the sleeping bag rating.

7. Be Honest with Yourself

There’s no benefit in “toughing it out” with a sleeping bag that doesn’t meet your needs. Be realistic about your fitness, health, cold tolerance, and skill level. And don’t deceive yourself into thinking you can manage with a lightweight sleeping bag just to save weight. Lightweight bags are typically suitable only for summer at low elevations; for cold weather or mountainous conditions, you’ll need a more robust option.

Check out our selection of Military sleeping bags, including lightweight options and heavier winter sleeping bags.

Military sleeping bags are designed to take a beating, but that doesn’t mean that they don’t need to be cared for properly. This guide will walk you through the best practices for washing, drying, storing, and maintaining a military sleeping bag--including synthetic, down, and DWR sleeping bags--to ensure your bag stays in top condition for your next outdoor excursion.

How to Wash a Military Sleeping Bag

Can I Wash My Military Sleeping Bag in a Washing Machine?

Yes, all types of military sleeping bags can be cleaned in washing machines, including synthetic, down, and waterproof (DWR or Gore-Tex) sleeping bags. Military sleeping bags were designed to be durable and tough enough to withstand washing in industrial washing machines. You certainly didn’t have soldiers hand washing sleeping bags in the quartermaster laundry!

What about in a Top-Loading Washing Machine?

The instructions on military sleeping bags typically say to use a front-load washing machine. The reason for this is because older top-loading washing machines typically had the agitator in the middle of the basin. The sleeping bag could get caught on the agitator, causing damage. However, most top-loading washers today don’t have a central agitator, so it is safe to wash your military sleeping bag in them.

Should I Dry Clean My Sleeping Bag?

Never dry clean a military sleeping bag. The dry cleaning chemicals can harm the insulation, causing it to lose its loft and ability to retain heat.

How Often Should I Wash My Sleeping Bag?

While it’s safe to wash a military sleeping bag, you should do it as infrequently as possible to avoid damaging the insulation. To minimize the need for washing:

• Consider using a sleeping bag liner.
• Always sleep in clean clothes.
• Don’t use a bag which is too warm for your needs because it will make you sweat at night.

Military Sleeping Bag Washing Instructions:

1. Unzip the sleeping bag and slide the zipper halfway up.
2. Close any Velcro straps. This prevents lint from getting stuck in the Velcro and fabric from snagging.
3. Put the sleeping bag in the washing machine. Don’t add anything else to the load.
4. Add a few tennis balls to the washing machine. These will bounce around in the machine, preventing the insulation from clumping together.
5. Use the right laundry detergent.
   1. For synthetic bags, use a technical cleaner like Nikwax.
   2. For down bags, use a detergent specifically formulated for down.
   3. If you don’t have these options, choose a mild, non-detergent soap without bleach.
6. Never add fabric softener. This will damage sleeping bag fibers.
7. Wash on a warm, gentle cycle. The “gentle delicate” or “wool wash” are usually the best options.
8. Run an extra rinse cycle. This ensures no soap residue is left in the sleeping bag, which can cause insulation to lose its loft.
9. Test whether any soap is left in the bag. If suds appear when you press on the wet bag, run another rinse cycle.
10. Carefully remove the sleeping bag from the machine. Lay it flat outside or near a drain. Loosely roll the bag up so water streams out of it. Do not squeeze or tightly roll the bag as this can compress the insulation.

Drying Instructions:

Machine Drying: Dry in the dryer at a low heat. High temperatures can melt sleeping bag materials. Add several tennis balls to the dryer. This is mandatory for down sleeping bags, but also useful for synthetic bags. The balls help fluff the insulation as the bag dries.

Air Drying Instructions: It’s best to air dry a sleeping bag on a flat surface, such as by draping it over a drying rack. If you must hang the bag to dry it, you’ll need to make sure it is hung in multiple spots so the insulation doesn’t clump in one area.

How to Store a Military Sleeping Bag

• Clean before prolonged storage. While you don’t want to wash your military sleeping bag too frequently, you should wash it before putting it in storage for long periods of time.
• Make sure it is completely dry before storing. Otherwise, it can get moldy.
• Do not store in a compression sack. This can compress the insulation so much that it becomes impossible to fluff, making the sleeping bag less effective.
• Allow the bag to breathe. Sleeping bags shouldn’t be stored in plastic bags or anything impermeable to air. They need to breathe to prevent mold growth and bad odors.
• Hang the bag. Instead of using the compression sack, hang your sleeping bag. Alternatively, store it loosely in a mesh storage bag like the one shown below.

General Care of Military Sleeping Bags

Even though military sleeping bags are designed for toughness, following these care guidelines will extend their life and ensure they retain their warmth.

• Use a sleeping pad or cot: Sleeping directly on the ground can tear sleeping bags.
• Repair holes immediately: Otherwise insulation can leak out. If you will be in the field for long periods of time, bring a small repair kit.
• Lubricate zippers: Zippers are the most common failure point on sleeping bags. Use graphite from a pencil to lubricate them. Never use oils or Vaseline to lube zippers as this will just attract dust and cause them to stick.
• Avoid using in front of a fire: The heat from a campfire can damage sleeping bag shells and melt insulation. If you want to bundle up in front of the fire, use a wool blanket instead.

Meals, Ready-to-Eat (MREs) have become a popular choice for disaster preparedness due to their convenience, long shelf life, and comprehensive meal packaging. Originally designed to sustain soldiers in the field, MREs are also great for taking on camping, bushcraft, and outdoor trips.

But when it comes to health, how do MREs measure up? Let’s explore their nutritional profile to determine if MREs are healthy and whether they provide nutrition.

Macronutrients: Where Do the Calories in MREs Come From?

Calories in food come from three macronutrients: carbohydrates, proteins and fats. Each of these macronutrients plays a vital role in maintaining bodily functions and supporting physical activity. However, not all calories are created equal—different sources of calories impact your body in various ways. For optimal health and performance, it's essential to maintain a balanced intake of these macronutrients.

When it comes to macronutrient balance, MREs are very healthy. They provide the right balance of macronutrients from quality sources. By contrast, most emergency meals get their calories from refined sugars, cheap carbs, and processed fats, and they typically have almost no protein. There are some exceptions--Mountain House meals contain real meat and loads of protein—but these are more expensive than bulk military MREs.

It varies slightly depending on the menu, but you can expect the following macros from an MRE:

• Carbohydrates: Carbs make up 40-50% of the calories in an MRE. Carbohydrates are crucial for providing quick and sustained energy, essential for maintaining high levels of activity. The carbohydrate sources in MREs include items like pasta, rice, and bread, which are designed to supply a steady energy release.
• Proteins: Protein makes up about 15-20% of the total calories in an MRE. Proteins are essential for muscle repair, growth, and overall bodily functions. MREs contain a variety of protein sources, including meat, poultry, and dairy-based items, which help in maintaining muscle mass and recovery from physical exertion.
• Fats: Fats account for approximately 30-35% of the total calories in MREs. Fats are energy-dense and necessary for absorbing fat-soluble vitamins. They also are important for making food taste good and helping you feel full after eating a meal.

Do MREs Have Nutritional Value?

In addition to providing macronutrients, some MRE items are fortified with vitamins and minerals that soldiers need, such as vitamin A, vitamin C, iron, zinc, calcium, and magnesium. These are known as micronutrients.

Minerals like calcium and iron have a very long (and possibly “forever”) shelf life. However, the same can’t be said for vitamins. Most vitamins are not shelf stable and will rapidly deteriorate in the presence of heat. Because of this, don’t count on MREs to meet your RDA for vitamins.

If you were to eat just MREs for a prolonged period of time, you could suffer from vitamin deficiency. This could result in tiredness, brain fog, reduced immunity, and many other health issues that could compromise your survival in an emergency situation. The same is true of any emergency meal, though.

Sodium Content of MREs

A major issue with military MREs is their high sodium content. MREs typically have 1.6mg to 2.3mg of sodium per gram of food. Eating three MREs per day would provide approximately 19g of sodium, which is well above the FDA’s guidelines of 2.3g per day.

The body excretes sodium during intense activity, so the high sodium content of MREs isn’t a major concern for soldiers. However, it is problematic for civilians—especially those who already have high blood pressure or will be inactive (such as when hunkering down through an emergency).

Fiber Content

Another issue with MREs is that they contain very little fiber, thus earning them the nickname, “Meals, Refusing to Exit.” For short-term emergencies, the low fiber amount isn’t a major health concern, but it is why the military recommends not eating only MREs for more than 21 days straight.

The Verdict?

When it comes to macronutrients, particularly protein, MREs are a healthy choice and offer a much better balanced energy profile than typical emergency meals. However, like most emergency meals, MREs aren’t healthy when it comes to micronutrients, sodium, and fiber.

For short-term emergencies or camping trips, MREs are healthy enough to meet your nutrition and energy needs. However, for long-term preparedness, you should supplement MREs with high-fiber, low-sodium, and nutrient-rich foods like freeze-dried fruits and vegetables and whole grains.

See our selection of MREs and emergency food here.

Resources:

https://www.med.navy.mil/Navy-and-Marine-Corps-Force-Health-Protection-Command/Population-Health/Health-Promotion-and-Wellness/The-MRE-A-Lesson-in-Performance-Nutrition/,https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK220578/,https://www.militarytimes.com/pay-benefits/military-benefits/health-care/2015/03/02/new-site-gives-mre-nutrition-facts/

We are often asked What Is The Best Thermal Underwear?  This as you expect depends on your use but we always answer it the same.  Start with a good base and go from there.   In a cold-weather layering system, thermal base layers play a crucial role by wicking moisture away from the body. This keeps you dry and prevents heat loss due to evaporation. Since base layers are worn directly against the skin, their material and construction significantly impact your comfort. To illustrate this, we’ll compare two distinct base layers: the Military’s ECWCS thermals and Smartwool thermals.

Military ECWCS Thermals

Before facing harsh climates, soldiers are issued the Military’s Extended Cold Weather Clothing System (ECWCS). This system includes seven “levels” of clothing, which can be combined to ensure comfort in various weather conditions. The first two levels are base layer thermals:

• Level 1: This consists of a lightweight (silkweight) thermal top and bottom, designed for temperatures above freezing.
• Level 2: This mid-weight thermal top and bottom are intended for temperatures below freezing. They can be worn alone or combined with Level 1 for added insulation and moisture wicking.

See the selection of military thermals here.

Moisture Control:

Both Level 1 and Level 2 ECWCS thermals are made from a synthetic material called Polartec Power Dry. All synthetics have good wicking properties, but Polartec has been engineered specifically for wicking. It does a great job of pulling moisture so the base layers always feel dry against your skin, allowing you to feel warm.

Drying Time:

The Polartec material also dries very quickly. If you are going on a longer trip and plan on doing laundry, you only need to bring one extra pair of the Military thermals because they will dry overnight. You can even hang them off your pack to dry while hiking.

Durability:

Synthetic base layers are known for being very durable, but the Military’s thermals are built to take a beating. The material has a bi-component weave to give the material extra strength while still being lightweight and stretchy.

Flame Resistance:

The thermals meet the Military’s Flame Resistant Organizational Gear (FROG) requirements. FROG clothing was engineered to provide burn protection. Like all synthetic fabrics, the FROG thermals will get holes if a spark hits them. However, the material is “no melt, no drip” technology, protecting the wearer if they are exposed to a flame.

Odor Control:

Synthetic material base layers are notorious for starting to stink quickly. This is because smelly oils from our body stick to the synthetic materials. Bacteria also stick to the surface of synthetics. Odor-control isn’t one of the Military’s priorities, so their thermals are just as stinky as any other synthetic.

Features and Fit:

The Military thermals come in just a few color options, and there aren’t many sizes. Good luck finding Military thermals that fit a woman or a skinny teen boy well. You can also forget about designs or features.

Price:

The Military thermals are one of the most affordable base layer options you’ll find. They are often 5x cheaper than base layers marketed for skiing or hiking, and you can find them in military surplus stores. Army Navy Outdoors has surplus thermals as well as unused Military thermals.

Smartwool Thermals

Smartwool is a one of the best-known brands of wool thermals. Their products come in many different weights for different temperatures. They are very popular with skiers, hikers, and other outdoor enthusiasts.

Moisture Control:

All Smartwool thermals are made from merino wool, a material known for its natural moisture-wicking properties. Even though merino doesn’t wick nearly as well as synthetics, it feels drier on the skin. Merino also has great insulating properties, though a base layer’s primary function is to wick moisture away.

Drying Time:

While Smartwool thermals do wick moisture effectively, wool takes much longer to dry than synthetics. Wool does retain some of its insulating properties when wet, though a wet Smartwool thermal will not insulate as well as a dry one.

Durability:

Smartwool thermals are more durable than cheap merino wool base layers, but they still are delicate and need to be cared for. You should only hand wash them if you want them to last, and need to be careful that they don’t snag on branches or gear when wearing them by themselves.

Flame Resistance:

Merino wool is naturally flame-resistant to a degree. It will smolder and self-extinguish when exposed to flames, providing some level of protection but it is not as fire-resistant as the Military’s FROG thermals.

Odor Control:

One key feature of merino wool thermals is that it naturally inhibits bacterial growth. Long-distance hikers will often wear the same merino thermals for weeks without them getting stinky, meaning they don’t have to worry about washing or offending anyone they encounter.

Features and Fit:

Smartwool offers a huge range of fits, including options specifically tailored for different genders and body types. They also have thermals with additional features like flatlock seams to reduce chafing, thumbholes, and ventilation in key areas.

Price:

Smartwool thermals are notorious for being very expensive. They aren’t very durable either, so there is the added cost of having to buy another set sooner.

Which Is Better?

Both the Military ECWCS thermals and Smartwool thermals offer superior moisture-wicking to help your body stay warm in cold climates. If your primary concerns are durability and affordability, then the Military thermals are the better option. They are cheap and can take a beating. If you want more design options and are willing to pay more for a garment that doesn’t get stinky, then Smartwool is the way to go. 

Hopefully this can help you answe our first question as to what the Best Thermal Undewear is and you can always stay warm in any cold enviorment. 

Not familiar with military rucksacks? Check out our selection of military surplus packs here.

1. ALICE Pack

The ALICE (All-Purpose Lightweight Individual Carrying Equipment) pack is iconic for its durability and modular design. It features a large main compartment and external pouches for additional storage. The pack is made from tough nylon canvas and includes an adjustable, padded hip belt and shoulder straps for comfort. Its simplicity and effectiveness made it a staple for soldiers during the late 20th century.

• Issued: 1970s
• Capacity: 40L (medium), 62L (large)
• Modularity: Compatible with ALICE-specific pouches and accessories

Shop Army Surplus ALICE packs here.

2. MOLLE II Rucksack

The MOLLE II Rucksack represents a significant upgrade from the ALICE pack, offering enhanced modularity and comfort. Constructed from durable 1000 Denier nylon, it boasts a large main compartment with a total capacity of 5,000 cubic inches. Its modular design allows for various attachments, including sustainment pouches, making it versatile for different missions.

• Issued: Early 2000s
• Capacity: 81L (large)
• Modularity: Fully compatible with MOLLE II accessories and pouches

Shop MOLLE II rucksacks here.

3. ACU Assault 3 Day Pack

The ACU Assault 3 Day Pack is designed for short-term deployments and field exercises. With a compact yet spacious design, it includes a large main compartment, a front zippered pocket, and a small utility pocket. Made from durable denier nylon, it is water and abrasion resistant, featuring slots for hydration systems and radio antennas.

• Issued: Mid-2000s
• Capacity: 30L
• Modularity: MOLLE webbing for additional gear attachments

See the ACU Assault 3-Day Pack here.

4. Mystery Ranch Overload Rucksack

The Mystery Ranch Overload is known for its innovative 3-zip design, which allows rapid access to the pack’s contents. Its expandable frame system facilitates additional load carrying while maintaining optimal weight distribution. Constructed from custom 500D Cordura with Teflon and PU coatings, it ensures maximum durability and weather protection.

• Issued: 2010s
• Capacity: 50L
• Modularity: Equipped with MOLLE webbing for customization

Shop the MR Overload pack here.

5. USMC FILBE Rucksack

The USMC FILBE (Family of Improved Load Bearing Equipment) Rucksack is designed for the Marine Corps' demanding field conditions. Featuring a frame for enhanced load distribution and comfort, it offers a total carrying capacity of 81 liters. Made from waterproof-coated nylon, it includes MOLLE webbing for additional pouches and gear.

• Issued: 2000s
• Capacity: 81L
• Modularity: MOLLE webbing on multiple areas for extensive customization

See USMC FILBE kits here.

6. FILBE 3 Day Assault Pack

The FILBE 3 Day Assault Pack serves as a companion to the main FILBE rucksack and is designed for short missions. It features a large main compartment, a smaller outer pocket, and MOLLE webbing for additional attachments. Made from durable Cordura nylon, it includes a plastic frame sheet for added stiffness and support.

• Issued: 2000s
• Capacity: 30L
• Modularity: MOLLE webbing for attaching additional pouches

Get a military surplus FILBE 3-day assault pack here.

7. M-1936 Field Pack

In 1936, the Army introduced the M-1936 canvas field packs based on the design of the British musette bag used by officers in WWII. The pack could be worn on a single shoulder strap or attached to a set of web suspenders. It has several pockets and is the perfect size for an EDC rucksack.

• Issued: 1936
• Capacity: 25 liters
• Modularity: Limited modularity, basic design

8. M-1956 and M-1961 Butt Packs

The M-1956 pack resembles the M-1936 field pack, but was typically worn on the back of a pistol belt (hence the name “butt pack”). It could also be worn higher up on the back with suspender straps. The M-1961 version was improved with a larger, rubberized compartment.Unfortunately, it’s hard to find genuine army butt packs, but Rothco makes a vintage rucksack that is similar in style to it.

• Issued: 1956
• Capacity: 25 liters
• Modularity: Limited modularity, basic design

9. Gregory UM21 SPEAR Ruck System

The Gregory UM21 SPEAR Ruck System is a specialized pack used by Special Forces. It includes an internal frame system and MOLLE webbing for modular attachments. Available in woodland or desert camo, this rucksack is designed for both main and assault pack configurations, offering versatility and durability.

• Issued: Early 2000s
• Capacity: 90L; variable with modular components
• Modularity: Extensive MOLLE webbing and interchangeable parts

10. London Bridge Trading (LBT) 1476A Rucksack

The London Bridge Trading 1476A Rucksack is a robust tactical pack designed for special operations. Made from 1000 Denier nylon, it features an internal frame for support and multiple compartments for organization. The pack includes MOLLE webbing for modularity and a padded hip belt for comfort during extended use.

• Issued: 2000s
• Capacity: 30L
• Modularity: MOLLE webbing for attachments and customization

Outdoor enthusiasts know that the thrill of the wilderness comes with its share of risks. While dramatic injuries such as from a bear mauling or lightning strike are incredibly unlikely, there is a high risk for certain injuries while outdoors.

These common outdoor injuries may seem minor. However, if you aren’t prepared, they can easily ruin your trip, or even escalate into something more serious. For example, a minor foot injury can slow down your pace. The slowed pace can mean you aren’t able to get off the trail before nightfall, causing you to spend an unplanned night in outdoors. This is why it is important that you always have well-packed first aid kit and know how to treat these most common outdoor injuries.

Shop outdoor first aid kits here.

1. Sprained Ankle

A sprain occurs when a ligament, the tissue connecting bones to each other, is stretched or torn. Sprained ankles are very common in the outdoors, such as when you slip on wet rocks or roll your ankle on uneven terrain. You’ll know you have a sprain from the pain and immediate swelling that occurs.

How to Treat a Sprain Outdoors

1. Improvised Ice Pack: Sprains are typically treated by applying ice packs to the area for 15-20 minutes every hour. Since you probably don’t have ice packs in your first aid kit, try sticking your foot in an icy cold stream. Or have a friend dip a towel in the cold water. This helps reduce swelling and numb the pain.
2. Compression: Use an elastic bandage, triangle bandage, or to wrap the sprained area. This helps control swelling. It shouldn’t be too tight, as it may restrict blood flow.
3. Elevation: Prop up the injured ankle on a rock or gear to keep it elevated above heart level, which helps reduce swelling.
4. Splint: If you have to hike out with a sprained ankle, apply a splint to immobilize the joint. You’ll also want to use improvised crutches. Or, at least use hiking poles while walking to reduce the amount of pressure you put on your ankle and help stabilize yourself as you hike.
5. Pain Relief: OTC pain relievers such as ibuprofen or acetaminophen can help manage pain and inflammation.

2. Dehydration

It is easy to get dehydrated in the outdoors, especially when you didn’t bring enough water, or the water source you were relying on dried up. Mild dehydration will just make your mouth dry and cause fatigue. Serious dehydration can cause dizziness and confusion.

How to Treat Dehydration Outdoors

1. Oral Rehydration Salts: Hopefully you packed oral rehydration salts in your first aid kit. These restore lost electrolytes quickly, allowing you to rehydrate much faster than with water alone.
2. Add Salt and Sugar to Your Water: If you don’t have oral rehydration salts, you can improvise your own by adding sugar and salt to your water. The ideal ratio is 8 tsp of sugar and 1 tsp of salt per quart of water. If you don’t have this much sugar and salt with you, then add as much as you can. Even dumping the salty crumbs from your trail mix can help!
3. Natural Electrolytes: Wild berries are a good natural source of electrolytes. If you are hardcore and know geology well, you can lick rock deposits for their natural salt content!
4. Rest in the Shade with Feet Elevated: Find a shaded or cool area to rest with your feet propped up.

3. Cuts

No matter how careful you are when outdoors, some cuts and wounds are inevitable. They are particularly common if you use a knife which isn’t properly sharpened, improperly use an axe, or when wearing crampons in winter.

Regardless of whether the cut is minor or major, you will treat it the same way. However, if you are doing high-risk activities, you may want to pack an enhanced first aid kit with trauma items.

How to Treat Cuts Outdoors

1. Apply Pressure: Use a clean cloth to apply firm pressure to the cut to stop bleeding. Keep the pressure steady for 10-15 minutes.
2. Clean the Wound: Use purified water to rinse the cut and remove debris. If you have an irrigation syringe in your first aid kit, use this. If not, consider poking a hole in your water bottle lid so you can squeeze pressurized water onto the wound to clean debris from it. If it’s a serious wound that was bleeding profusely, you might not need to clean it at all since the blood flushed out debris.
3. Antiseptic Application: If you have antiseptic ointment, apply it to the wound. If you didn’t pack this, cover the wound with skin balm or Vaseline instead. It won’t prevent infection, but will prevent the dressing from sticking to the wound.
4. Consider Butterfly Bandages: If the cut is deep but straight (such as from a knife cut), use butterfly bandages to hold the edges of the cut together.
5. Dress the Wound: Use a sterile dressing to cover the cut. If you don’t have a dressing, use the cleanest piece of fabric you have.
6. Bandage: Tie or wrap a bandage around the dressing to hold it in place. Because the bandage isn’t in direct contact with the wound, it doesn’t have to be sterile like the dressing.
7. Change Dressings: You will need to change the dressing once per day, or when it gets wet or saturated with blood. If you don’t have enough dressings in your first aid kit, improvise dressings by boiling strips of cloth and letting them dry. The cloth should be a smooth material. Cotton works well. Don’t use materials with lots of protruding fibers, such as wool.

4. Hypoglycemia

Regardless of whether you have diabetes or not, intense outdoor activity can cause your body to burn through glucose quickly and result in exercise-induced hypoglycemia—a condition where blood sugar levels drop too low. This can cause symptoms such as dizziness, fatigue, confusion, and even fainting.

How to Treat Hypoglycemia Outdoors

1. Consume Fast-Acting Carbohydrates: If you experience symptoms of low blood sugar, eat or drink something high in sugar, such as energy bars or candy. Aim for about 15-20 grams of carbohydrates.
2. Rest: Find a comfortable place to sit and relax while waiting for your blood sugar levels to stabilize. Avoid further strenuous activities until you feel better.
3. Eat a Meal: Once you’ve managed your symptoms, consume a meal with both carbohydrates and protein to help maintain stable blood sugar levels.

5. Blisters

Blisters are by far one of the most common outdoor injuries. They occur when your shoes or gear rub your skin, causing friction. Blisters can be nasty enough to make it hard to walk, causing you to get stranded in the outdoors overnight.

How to Treat Blisters Outdoors

1. Change Your Socks: Moisture softens your skin and makes it more prone to blisters. Put on dry socks to prevent foot blisters from getting worse.
2. Create a “Doughnut” with Moleskin: Cut out a circle that is larger than the blister. Fold it in half and cut a hole in the middle. The hole should be just large enough for your blister to fit through. This “doughnut” will provide padding around the blister.
3. Use Duct Tape on Heel Blisters: First put some gauze over the blister to prevent the duct tape from sticking to the blister directly. Then cover the entire heel area with a piece of duct tape. The duct tape is smooth, so it will prevent friction from your shoes rubbing on your heel as you walk.
4. Don’t Pop the Blister: Popping blisters is a bad idea because it exposes the skin and opens it for an infection.
5. If You Must Pop: Sometimes you have to pop a blister, such as if the blister is so large it is making it impossible to put your shoes back on. Always use a sterilized needle for popping blisters. After popping, dress and bandage it like you would a cut.

When choosing a sleeping bag, the temperature rating is the most important thing to look at. However, if you want to avoid freezing your butt off when camping in extreme conditions, it’s crucial to understand how these temperature ratings are determined. This guide breaks down the complexities of sleeping bag ratings, from the EN/ISO system to military evaluations, so you can understand what those ratings mean.

EN/ISO Ratings

Before 2005, there was no standard rating system for sleeping bags. The manufacturers would decide for themselves what rating to put on a sleeping bag, so two 30°F sleeping bags might be vastly different in terms of warmth.

The EN (European Norm) 13537 Standard was introduced in 2005 to solve this problem. The standard required all sleeping bags to use the same testing system to determine temperature rating. In 2017, the ISO (International Standards Organization) 23537 Standard replaced the EN system. However, because the systems are almost identical, an old sleeping bag with an EN rating will have an identical ISO rating.

EN/ISO Lab Testing Method

The EN/ISO Standard has many specific, detailed instructions that testers must follow. However, the test basically involves putting a manikin dressed in thermal clothing in a sleeping bag. The sleeping bag goes on top of a sleeping bag inside a climate-controlled chamber. The manikin is thermal to mimic the heat output of the human body, and sensors measure how well the manikin retains heat within the sleeping bag at different temperatures.

ISO Ratings

Based on the test results, a sleeping bag will have these ratings:

• Comfort Rating: The temperature at which an “average female” can sleep comfortably without shivering throughout the night in an uncurled position.
• Limit Rating: The temperature at which an “average man” can sleep comfortably without shivering in a curled-up position.
• Extreme Rating: This represents the lowest temperature at which the sleeping bag will provide adequate protection against hypothermia. It’s a survival rating rather than a comfort rating.

Problems with the ISO Rating System

While the ISO system is better than letting manufacturers determine sleeping bags ratings on their own, it has many flaws that can make the rating inaccurate. These include:

• Set user height and weight: One standard-sized female and male manikin are used for the tests. If you are larger or smaller than the manikin, the sleeping bag may have more or less extra space in it, which affects how well the bag can trap heat.
• Base layer and sleeping pad: The ISO test puts the manikins in thermals and puts the sleeping bag on a standard foam pad, and yours may be very different.
• Doesn’t account for movement: A manikin doesn’t move around during the test like a real human does when sleeping. This can cause insulation to clump or air to escape through hoods. Good sleeping bags have features like baffles to prevent this, but there’s no way to account for those features in the testing process.
• No test for extreme conditions: The ISO Standard only applies to sleeping bags rated to -4F and above. There is no test for sleeping bags designed for extreme climates.

Military Sleeping Bag Temperature Ratings

US Military sleeping bags do not use the ISO/EN system. Instead, they perform their own lab tests. These tests are run by organizations such as the Defense Logistics Agency (DLA) and the Natick Soldier Systems Center. The Military doesn’t disclose how they run their lab tests to determine rating. However, the tests are probably similar to the ISO method, but likely also factor in the extreme conditions that soldiers may encounter.

In addition to lab tests, the US Military also uses field tests. Service members use the bags in real-world conditions. The final temperature rating is determined by both lab testing and field feedback.

Problems with Military Sleeping Bag Ratings

Like the ISO/EN rating system, military sleeping bag ratings are far from exact. Some of the main issues are:

• Survival, not comfort, rating: Military sleeping bags are made for survival, so don’t assume you will feel comfortable at the listed temperature.
• Tested for soldiers: The military temperature rating assumes a healthy, young, male is going to be using the sleeping bag. Our bodies lose the ability to create heat as we age, and being overweight or unhealthy can also make us feel colder. So, where a 20-year-old soldier in his prime might feel comfortable in a 30°F sleeping military sleeping bag, a 60-year-old overweight man might be freezing in the same bag.
• Limited time: Some sleeping systems only keep you comfortable for X hours at the temperature. For example, the Modular Sleep System is rated to -30°F for 4 hours. If you hoped to get a full night’s sleep at -30°F, you might wake up freezing.

No Temperature Rating System Is Perfect

The EN/ISO and Military sleeping bag temperature rating systems both have their pros/cons. The EN/ISO system has very clear, open guidelines, but doesn’t apply to cold-weather bags or account for real-life use. The Military system factors in real-world tests, but indicates survival over comfort.

Aside from temperature rating, there are also many other factors that determine how warm a sleeping bag will be—such as weather conditions, user health, and skills.

Not sure what rating you need? Read this post about how to choose the perfect sleeping bag rating.

You can also check out modular sleeping bag systems that allow you to mix and match sleeping bags to get the perfect comfort.